Find the water before the part
A leak is diagnosed by location and timing. Water inside the cabinet under the crisper means the defrost drain. Water on the floor at the front means the same fault one stage later. Water at the back means the tray or a connection. Water that appears only in humid weather usually means the seal. four model numbers share the CCUN designation. They are in the table below, and the trailing letters that separate them are finish and trim codes rather than different mechanisms — the fault below behaves the same across the list.
What you actually observe
- Water under the salad drawer with a dry floor — The drain, caught early. This is the best time to deal with it.
- Damp smell before any water is seen — Water has been sitting somewhere out of sight, often the tray or under the liner.
- Drips at the hinge side of the door — Condensation from a gasket that no longer grips at the corner, which is where they harden first.
- A constant slow weep at the back of a plumbed model — A supply connection, and unlike defrost water it does not stop. Close the shut-off and call.
- NEAR MISS — condensation inside after a long door opening — Room air meeting cold surfaces. It clears on its own and is not a leak.
Causes, most likely first on the CCUN line
- Inside the cabinet: the drain — First. Water under the crisper, an ice sheet on the liner floor, or containers sitting in water all name the same fault.
- On the floor at the front: the drain, overflowing — Second, and the same cause one stage later. Levelling matters here — a cabinet tipped forward sends the overflow to the front lip.
- At the back: the tray or a connection — Third. With the unit unplugged and pulled out, a torch finds it in a minute.
- Everywhere, in humid weather: condensation — Last as a mechanical cause and common as a complaint, particularly where a gasket has hardened.
Check in this order, and why that order
- Time the leak against the defrost cycle — Water that appears every several hours rather than continuously is defrost water, and that points at the drain rather than the supply.
- Dry everything and lay paper down — A sheet of kitchen paper under the cabinet and another inside tells you where the water arrives first, which no amount of description can.
- Paper-test the door seal — A gasket that no longer grips at one point lets in the humid air that becomes the water you are mopping.
- Clear the drain gently — Warm water flushed down the drain hole, not a wire pushed hard. The tube below it is soft plastic and it is easy to puncture.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Treat a leak that has soaked into insulation or flooring as urgent rather than cosmetic. Where the model is plumbed, close the supply shut-off before touching any connection, and remember a wet tiled floor and a heavy cabinet make moving it a two-person job.
Models this page covers
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| CCUN28B | commercial-cool:refrigerator:ccun |
| CCUN28BV | commercial-cool:refrigerator:ccun |
| CCUN28W | commercial-cool:refrigerator:ccun |
| CCUN28WV | commercial-cool:refrigerator:ccun |
Where the owner line is on these models
Stop and call where the leak is continuous rather than cyclic on a plumbed model, where the cabinet has water at the back around electrical parts, or where clearing the drain has not held. Everything before that — finding the puddle, emptying the compartment, flushing the drain with warm water, levelling the unit, checking the tray and the gasket — is honest owner work and is exactly what a technician would do first. Whichever of the four models in the table above you have, quote the full number from the rating plate when you call — the family letters alone will not get the right part.
Other CCUN problems we cover
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
