What this means on these models
When a Comfee HS refrigerator never cycles off and still feels warm inside, the cold is being made and then blocked on its way in. Heat that has nowhere to go comes straight back into the cabinet, which is the whole of this fault on a unit this size. The models this page covers are secondary-duty cabinets, asked to hold temperature in garages, offices and basements.
The observable signs on this platform
- The cabinet gets cool, not cold — A cabinet stuck part of the way is the most frequent form of this complaint on compact units.
- Ice building where air should be moving — On a fan-cooled model this is a stalled defrost, and it blocks the air path completely once it fills the fins.
- No sound at all from inside the cold compartment — No airflow with everything else running traps cold at the evaporator, which is why one corner may be frozen while the rest is warm.
- NEAR MISS — no hum at all, no cooling — That is a power, control or start-relay fault rather than the cooling loss this page covers, and it is diagnosed the other way round.
What it usually turns out to be, in order
- Condenser coil choked with dust — It ranks at or near the top on this family because the coil sits in a small, low-airflow space where household dust settles and nothing sweeps it off.
- No air circulating inside — This one only counts if you have a fan, and the vent check earlier on this page is how you find out.
- A gasket that has gone hard — It ranks high here because these cabinets are light, with small doors, and a gasket that has taken a set keeps the door touching but not closing.
What to check first, second, third
- Start at the back, with the hot side — It is first because it needs no tools, and it explains more warm cabinets on this platform than anything else.
- Listen for air movement at the vents — On a fan-cooled model this splits the field in half in seconds, which is why it comes before any panel is removed.
- Check the gasket with a sheet of paper — Do it early, because a bad seal looks like everything else on this list.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the refrigerator or switch off its breaker before removing any panel; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never open the refrigerant tubing — that line is where DIY stops. The condenser and the tubing around it run hot while the unit works, so let them cool before cleaning anything.
Models in the HS refrigerator family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| HS-121LN | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-125LN(SNZ) | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-125SEN(2NZ) | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-129SN | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-132CN(UR-BD102-DQ)-F | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-132CN(UR-BD102-DQ)-R | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-164LN(S3NZ) | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-188CN(UR-BD146-DQ)-F | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-188CN(UR-BD146-DQ)-R | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-262CN(UR-BD202-DQ)-F | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-267FN(UR-BD205X-DQ)-F | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-267FN(UR-BD205X-DQ)-R | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-60LN(SNZ) | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-65LN | comfee:refrigerator:hs |
When this stops being a DIY job
A frosted evaporator that ices up again quickly needs the defrost circuit tested, which is meter work. A cabinet that trips its breaker is an electrical fault and belongs to a technician the same day.
Other faults covered for the HS line
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