The short answer
When the Cafe CDP family stops draining, work from the sink back to the machine rather than the other way round. One model tag covers this family in the matrix below, which keeps parts ordering simple and leaves the whole of the diagnosis to the symptom. The disposer, the air gap and the hose loop are all outside the cabinet, and checking them first avoids pulling out a machine that was never at fault.
What you can observe on these models
- The sink gurgles while the dishwasher drains — The shared line is restricted, so the machine is pushing against a partly blocked disposer or trap.
- Water backs up out of the air gap on the sink deck — The line between the air gap and the disposer is blocked, which is a plumbing fix rather than an appliance one.
- Clean water rather than dirty water left behind — That is a fill-after-drain pattern: the machine drained and then took water on, which points at the inlet valve, not the pump.
- Draining works after the filter is cleaned and then stops again — Soil is reaching the pump because the filter is not retaining it, so the blockage rebuilds every few loads.
- NEAR MISS — a little water in the sump well every time — A small residual in the well is by design; it keeps the seals wet. Only a covered tub floor counts as a drainage failure.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Disposer knockout plug or a blocked disposer — Ranked first because it is the classic new-installation failure: the drain hose is connected to a disposer whose knockout was never removed, so the machine has never had anywhere to pump.
- Filter and sump blocked with soil, glass or seeds — Second because it is reachable by hand from inside the tub and needs no tools on these models.
- Drain hose kinked or without its high loop — Third: a hose crushed behind the machine, or one that runs straight into the trap without rising, either blocks the flow or siphons water back.
- Drain pump impeller jammed — Fourth because it needs the power off and the sump opened, which is a step beyond the checks above.
- Drain pump motor, check valve or control — Last: silence at the drain step is the only symptom that points here first, and confirming it needs a meter.
Check in this order, and why
- Run the disposer and fill the sink first — If the household drain is slow, the dishwasher never had a chance. This is the one check that is outside the appliance entirely.
- Check the air gap on the sink deck — Lift the cap and look for debris in the chamber. A blocked air gap backs water up in exactly this pattern.
- Scoop the tub and pull the filter — Clear the filter and sump by hand with the power off, and look for glass at the pump inlet while you are there.
- Look behind the machine at the hose — A kink or a lost high loop explains both a blocked drain and a tub that refills itself after a successful one.
Before you open anything
Safety
Switch the dishwasher off at its breaker before reaching into the sump or removing the filter — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Standing water in the tub hides broken glass on the Cafe CDP family, so scoop it out and use a gloved hand rather than bare fingers at the pump inlet. Never run a cycle with the filter or sump cover removed.
Models in the CDP family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| CDP888**V*** | cafe:dishwasher:cdp |
When to call a technician
Scooping, filtering and hose routing are yours. Call for anything that needs the pump removed, the check valve replaced or the control condemned on these models. Call the same day if dirty water has reached the floor and run under the cabinet — the drainage repair is small and the cabinet damage is not.
Other faults covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
