The short answer
When the Café CDT family puts water on the floor, look at the door line before pulling the machine out. Get a second person before you pull the cabinet out or tilt it. With eight model tags in the matrix below, this family covers several passes of the same platform, and a cause that is a running change on one group can be absent on another. A seal that has hardened, a door that sits proud of the cabinet, or a load that blocks the door from closing square will all leak in the same place and none of them needs the appliance moved.
What you can observe on these models
- Rust or a water stain under the toe kick — An old, slow leak. The stain shows where the water lands, not always where it starts.
- A leak that appears during the fill only — That is the inlet side: the fill hose connection, the inlet valve body or the fitting at the shutoff.
- Water appears when the door is opened mid-cycle — Normal carry-over from the door panel, not a leak. Let a cycle finish before judging.
- The door does not sit flush with the cabinet front — A hinge or spring out of adjustment loads the seal unevenly, so it leaks at one corner only.
- NEAR MISS — water at the sink base rather than the machine — A shared supply or waste connection under the sink leaks in the same room and is not an appliance fault.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Detergent type and dose — First on a floor with foam on it, because no seal on any platform is designed to hold back suds and no repair will change that.
- Door seal condition and contact — Second, and the most likely part to need replacing on an older machine of this family.
- Door hinge tension and panel alignment — Third: a door that has dropped needs the springs or cables looked at, and it leaks at the bottom corners first.
- Tub-to-sump seal or a loose clamp — Fourth, and the point at which most owners stop.
- Fill-side fitting weeping — Last of the list but first in urgency if found: mains pressure behind a cabinet does damage on a different scale from wash water.
Check in this order, and why
- Close the hot water shutoff under the sink — If the leak stops or slows immediately, it is supply-side and the machine can stay where it is until it is fixed.
- Check the door alignment against the cabinet front — A door proud at one corner loads the gasket unevenly and leaks there and nowhere else.
- Watch a short cycle with the toe kick removed — With the power on this is a look-only step: find the drip path before anything is dismantled.
- Level the machine in both directions — Do this last. It will not fix a real leak, but it stops a small one from being routed onto the floor.
Before you open anything
Safety
Power off at the breaker first; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A leaking machine on a wooden floor is a slip hazard and a structural one — dry the area before moving anything heavy, and support the door so it cannot drop while the machine is being worked on.
Models in the CDT family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| CDT800**N*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT805**N*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT828**V*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT84***N*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT858**V*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT858**Z*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT87***N*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
| CDT888**V*** | caf:dishwasher:cdt |
When to call a technician
Anything reachable with the door open is yours: seal, latch face, detergent, loading, levelling. Anything that needs the machine pulled out with the supply closed — sump seal, pump housing, hose clamps, inlet valve — is a service call on these models. Stop using the machine in the meantime rather than running it over a wet floor.
