The short answer
E7010 means the cooktop cannot connect to your home network or to the hood, as the table records. Nothing about cooking depends on that link: the zones heat and the controls respond exactly as before. What stops working is the app and the automatic hood pairing, and most of the causes sit in the room rather than in the appliance.
Code table
Reference| code | meaning | owner-checkable |
|---|---|---|
| E7010 | The cooktop is unable to connect to your home network or to the hood. | yes |
| E7015 | The electronics have overheated. The corresponding cooking zone has switched off. | see page |
| E8207 | The electronics have overheated. The corresponding cooking zone has switched off. | see page |
What you observe
- The hood no longer responds to the cooktop — The pairing between the two appliances is what has dropped.
- The cooktop shows as offline in the app — The network link, not the cooking control.
- Pairing runs and fails near the end — The appliance reaches the network and then does not complete.
- NEAR MISS — a zone will not heat — That is never a connectivity code; read the code the panel shows for that zone.
Likeliest causes first
- Signal strength under a worktop — First: a cooktop sits in a metal-lined cut-out below a stone or timber surface, which is one of the worst places in a kitchen for radio.
- Router settings or a router needing a restart — Second: a band the appliance cannot join, a guest network or a router that has stopped issuing addresses.
- The pairing between cooktop and hood — Last: the two appliances hold their own pairing, and it can be lost when either is reset or replaced.
Check in this order
- Check the signal at the worktop with a phone — Weak there means weak for the appliance, and no amount of retrying will fix it.
- Restart the router, then the cooktop at the breaker — In that order, and most of these clear here.
- Re-pair the hood from the beginning — A half-completed pairing leaves both appliances holding stale state.
Owner-safe steps
- Restart the router and let it settle — Give it a minute or two before asking the cooktop to join.
About 10 min
- Cut the cooktop breaker for a minute, then retry pairing — Clears the stored connection state in the appliance.
About 10 min
- Run the hood pairing procedure from the start — Both appliances need to be in pairing mode at the same time.
About 20 min
- STOP HERE — the radio module is under the worktop — Lifting a bonded cooktop is a job for someone equipped to do it.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A cooktop holds charge in its filter capacitors after the supply is cut, and the glass cracks if it is levered. Work only with the surface cold and the breaker off.
When to call
Call when the signal is strong at the worktop, the router has been restarted and pairing still fails. Nothing here is urgent — the cooktop cooks normally unconnected, and many owners never pair it at all. Weigh the cost of lifting a bonded appliance against features you may not use before agreeing to any work.
Neighbouring codes — E7015 and E8207 appear beside E7010 in the table and are recorded against different hardware — different questions with different answers. A shared prefix on this brand is not a shared fault.
What this page does not cover
Read this as the class-level answer. The meaning of E7010 here is the one the shared Bosch cooktop table publishes, which applies to the model lines that use that table and to no others; a family- or model-specific page, where one exists, is linked below and outranks this one for your unit. Part numbers, wiring detail and torque figures belong on that page, not here.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
