The short answer
Water standing above the filter at the end of a cycle on a Bosch SHP-series dishwasher is almost never the drain pump, whatever the noise suggests. On this platform the path is short and the things that close it are ranked by the full-width cabinet and by how the machine was plumbed in: no softener reservoir and a pocket handle both change which end of that path you should look at first. A film of water that leaves the filter dry is normal and is not this fault.
What you observe
- A hum from the base with nothing moving — The pump is being asked to work against something it cannot shift.
- A stale smell from the tub between cycles — Standing water that has been there longer than one cycle.
- The sink beside it drains slowly too — That moves the whole diagnosis out of the machine and under the worktop.
- NEAR MISS - the machine drains continuously and refuses to fill — That is leak protection reporting water beneath the tub, not a drain fault. It belongs on the leak page and it does not get better by cleaning a filter.
Likeliest causes here
- The filter and the sump beneath it — Everything the wash lifts off the dishes arrives here, and the drain path starts on the far side of it. First on this family, and for a reason that belongs to the platform: the sump on this cabinet holds less than a full-size one, so it closes on less.
- The air gap blocked, or a disposer knockout left in place — The path above the worktop closes as readily as the path below it, and a new disposer that has never had its plug punched out blocks it completely. Second here, and close enough behind the first to be checked in the same pass: this is the fault that arrives the week after a kitchen change.
- The drain hose kinked or crushed behind the machine — A hose squashed when the machine was pushed back into its opening will never clear itself. Ranked third on these models: only worth suspecting if the machine has been moved.
- Something solid in the drain pump impeller — Glass, a fruit stone, a bottle label or a bone fragment reaches the impeller and jams it, and the motor hums against it. Last, and the ranking is the point: it announces itself with a hum, so it is rarely a mystery.
- Where this ranking departs from the brand-generic page — The cause that moves is the filter and the sump beneath it. It leads on this family because the controls sit on the top edge of the door and vanish the moment it closes. That is a property of the platform rather than of the brand, which is why the page above this one cannot rank it the same way.
Check in this order
- Bail the tub out, then twist the filter assembly free — Clear the sump by hand and look for glass. What is under the filter is the diagnosis more often than anything downstream. It leads on these models because the construction puts it within reach before anything else on the list.
- Lift the air gap cover on the worktop and clear it — If a disposer has been fitted, confirm its dishwasher knockout was actually removed.
- Look at the hose where it leaves the cabinet — A crush mark or a tight bend is visible without pulling the machine right out.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel or reaching under the tub - a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Bail the standing water out before you start rather than after, assume broken glass in the sump, and wear a glove for the impeller. Do not drag a built-in machine out with its supply still connected.
When to call
Everything inside the tub is owner ground on these models, and so is everything under the sink. The line is the base plate: a pump that is silent when it should run, a control that never calls for a drain, or a leak-protection state that will not clear are all diagnosed with a meter and the machine tipped.
Nearest pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
