The short answer
Water standing above the filter at the end of a cycle on a Bosch SHE-series dishwasher is almost never the drain pump, whatever the noise suggests. On this platform the path is short and the things that close it are ranked by the full-width cabinet and by how the machine was plumbed in: no softener reservoir and a recessed grip both change which end of that path you should look at first.
What you observe
- Water reappears in the tub hours after a cycle — Not a drain failure at all but a back-feed, and it is diagnosed from the other end.
- Water covering the filter when the cycle ends — That is the symptom. A film below the filter is normal and keeps the seals wet.
- A hum from the base with nothing moving — The pump is being asked to work against something it cannot shift.
- NEAR MISS - the machine drains continuously and refuses to fill — That is leak protection reporting water beneath the tub, not a drain fault. It belongs on the leak page and it does not get better by cleaning a filter.
Likeliest causes here
- Something solid in the drain pump impeller — Glass, a fruit stone, a bottle label or a bone fragment reaches the impeller and jams it, and the motor hums against it. First, because on these models the clearance in this pump is tighter than the full-width machines.
- The filter and the sump beneath it — Everything the wash lifts off the dishes arrives here, and the drain path starts on the far side of it. Second on these models: the sump on this cabinet holds less than a full-size one, so it closes on less.
- The air gap blocked, or a disposer knockout left in place — The path above the worktop closes as readily as the path below it, and a new disposer that has never had its plug punched out blocks it completely. Third on this family - a fixed installation that has drained before rarely develops it.
- The drain hose kinked or crushed behind the machine — A hose squashed when the machine was pushed back into its opening will never clear itself. It comes last here - only worth suspecting if the machine has been moved.
- Where this ranking departs from the brand-generic page — The cause that moves is something solid in the drain pump impeller. It leads on this family because the grip is recessed into the top of the door, so the door is closed by its edge rather than by a handle. That is a property of the platform rather than of the brand, which is why the page above this one cannot rank it the same way.
Check in this order
- Reach into the sump opening and turn the impeller — It should move freely. Anything gritty or seized is what the hum has been fighting. It leads on these models because the construction puts it within reach before anything else on the list.
- Bail the tub out, then twist the filter assembly free — Clear the sump by hand and look for glass. What is under the filter is the diagnosis more often than anything downstream.
- Lift the air gap cover on the worktop and clear it — If a disposer has been fitted, confirm its dishwasher knockout was actually removed.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel or reaching under the tub - a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Bail the standing water out before you start rather than after, assume broken glass in the sump, and wear a glove for the impeller.
When to call
Everything inside the tub is owner ground on these models, and so is everything under the sink. The line is the base plate: a pump that is silent when it should run, a control that never calls for a drain, or a leak-protection state that will not clear are all diagnosed with a meter and the machine tipped.
Nearest pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
