The short answer
A leak from the G family is almost always the defrost drain or the water supply, and telling them apart takes one observation: where the water is. On this platform the drain blocks before anything else does, which is why it leads this ranking.
What you observe
- Water pooling under the crisper drawers — The classic blocked defrost drain: melt water has nowhere to go and backs into the cabinet.
- A sheet of ice on the floor of the compartment — Same fault caught later, once the pooled water has frozen.
- Water on the floor at the front — The cabinet floor slopes forward, so a rear leak arrives at the front.
- Damp only at the back of the machine — Supply-side: the inlet connection or the line, and it will be wet when the unit is idle.
- NEAR MISS - condensation on the outside of the doors — That is humidity and seal performance, not a leak.
Causes, most likely first on G
- Blocked defrost drain — Ranked first on the G family: the drain on this family is a narrow channel behind the rear panel and blocks with food debris and ice within a season. Every model code in the table above shares the same air path, which is why this ranks above the sealed system rather than below it. What moves against the brand-generic order is lower down: door seals and condensation sits above drain pan cracked or displaced here, because these models share one layout, so its weak point shows across the whole family.
- Water supply connection or line — Second: the supply connection is the one joint under constant pressure, so it weeps whether the appliance is running or not and the damage accrues quietly.
- Door seals and condensation — Third: a seal that no longer meets lets warm air in, which condenses and runs down the inside of the cabinet.
- Drain pan cracked or displaced — Fourth: the pan sits in the machine compartment and can be knocked out of place when the unit is moved.
- Ice maker fill valve or its tubing — Last: last, and only relevant where a module is fitted, but a weeping fill valve leaks steadily rather than in step with the defrost cycle.
Check in this order, and why
- Empty the compartment and find the drain opening — It is the likeliest cause and it is visible once the shelves are out.
- Check whether the wetness is inside the cabinet or behind it — Inside is a drain or a seal; behind is the supply. This splits the fault in one look.
- Flush the drain channel with warm water — It confirms the diagnosis and clears most blockages in one step.
- Test the seals with a sheet of paper around each door — Last, because it explains condensation rather than standing water.
Before you open anything
Safety
Isolate at the breaker before any panel comes off, and leave the sealed system alone entirely: refrigerant work is licensed work and the tools for it are not owner tools.
When to call a technician
Call at once if water is reaching the floor under a built-in cabinet: the flooring damage outruns the appliance fault, and the unit has to come out of its housing to stop it.
Other G pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
