The short answer
On the G family a cabinet that runs without cooling is far more often an airflow or defrost problem than a dead compressor. That puts the evaporator and its fan above the sealed system in the order, which is the opposite end of the brand-generic list.
What you observe
- Freezer side still cold, fresh-food side warm — Near-diagnostic on a shared-evaporator cabinet, and it points at the air path rather than the system.
- The unit never cycles off — A machine that cannot reach its target runs continuously and works its compressor far harder than normal.
- Cooling recovers for a day after the doors are left open — Near-diagnostic for a defrost fault: melting the ice restores the air path temporarily.
- The compartment is colder at the bottom than the top — An air-distribution problem rather than a failure to make cold.
- NEAR MISS - silent and not cold — That is a no-power or start-relay fault and belongs on a different page.
Causes, most likely first on G
- Blocked airflow from a frosted evaporator — Ranked first on the G family: this family runs a small evaporator behind a rear panel, so a defrost that stalls ices the whole air path within days rather than weeks. These codes share an evaporator arrangement and a defrost scheme, so a finding on one is worth assuming on the rest. What moves against the brand-generic order is lower down: condenser coil choked or its fan stalled sits above door seals, door alignment and loading here, because these models share one layout, so its weak point shows across the whole family.
- Evaporator or circulation fan not running — Second: the fan is the one part in the cold side that turns continuously, and a cabinet that warms from the top down is usually telling you it has stopped.
- Condenser coil choked or its fan stalled — Third: the condenser is tucked into the machine compartment on this family and blocks with dust and pet hair quickly.
- Door seals, door alignment and loading — Fourth: the cheapest cause to rule out and a real one on a cabinet that runs continuously.
- Sealed-system or compressor fault — Last: last, and the one that decides the fate of the appliance rather than the repair; refrigerant work is licensed work and the diagnosis is not an owner diagnosis.
Check in this order, and why
- Listen at the cabinet for the circulation fan — It separates the two likeliest causes before any panel comes off.
- Pull the unit out and check the condenser and its fan — Worth doing early because it needs no tools and no panel removed.
- Look behind the rear panel for a frost sheet — A solid sheet rather than a light dusting confirms a defrost fault.
- Test each door seal with a sheet of paper — Last, because it explains a struggling cabinet rather than a warm one.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Refrigerant work is licensed work, so leave the whole sealed system to a licensed technician, and call at once if you see oil at the compressor or smell burning.
When to call a technician
Call immediately if you see oil at the compressor or smell burning, because oil outside the tubing means the system is open. Otherwise call when the owner checks above are clean and the temperature has not recovered overnight.
Other G pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
