The short answer
A DV dryer that tumbles without heat is most often a protection device that has opened because of restricted airflow, not a failed heating element. On this family the vent comes first in the order for that reason: replacing the thermal device without clearing the duct simply repeats the fault.
What you observe
- Drum turns normally but the air is cold — Everything mechanical is fine and the heat circuit is open somewhere.
- It heated until recently and stopped suddenly — A sudden loss points at a protection device rather than at gradual wear.
- Weak heat rather than none at all — Points at a thermostat or a partial element fault rather than an open protection device.
- Heat for a few minutes then nothing — A device opening as the machine warms, which is again an airflow signature.
- NEAR MISS - the drum does not turn at all — That is a no-start or belt fault and belongs on the start page.
Causes, most likely first on DV
- Restricted or blocked exhaust duct — Ranked first on the DV family: on this family a restricted duct is the condition that opens the thermal protection, so it is the cause even when a fuse is the failed part. What decides the order here is the protection chain, and on this family that chain is common to every model listed. What moves against the brand-generic order is lower down: heating element or its circuit sits above cycling thermostat or thermistor here, because these models share one layout, so its weak point shows across the whole family.
- Thermal fuse or high-limit device open — Second: a large appliance circuit is typically 30 A or higher at 240 V, and these one-shot devices open all at once, which is why the heat stops dead rather than fading.
- Heating element or its circuit — Third: a large appliance circuit is typically 30 A or higher at 240 V, and a dryer that has lost one leg tumbles perfectly while making no heat at all.
- Cycling thermostat or thermistor — Fourth: a control sensor that has drifted gives weak heat and long cycles rather than none, which is a different complaint from the one this page opens with.
- Control board or the heat relay — Last: last, because the protection chain and the supply account for nearly every no-heat on this family.
Check in this order, and why
- Disconnect and inspect the whole exhaust duct — Do this first: it is both the commonest cause and the condition that destroyed whatever part failed.
- Feel the exhaust discharge outside while it runs — Warm strong discharge means the duct is clear; weak or cold means it is not.
- Check the outside vent hood opens and is clear — A flap held shut by lint restricts the run even when the duct itself is clean.
- Have the supply checked if the machine runs on two legs — Losing one leg leaves the motor running and the heat dead, which is exactly this symptom.
Before you open anything
Safety
Kill the power before opening anything, and run the machine only with its panels fitted and its duct connected to the outside. The drum, the blower and the heater all move or get hot.
When to call a technician
Call once the duct is proven clear and the machine still tumbles cold, because what is left is the protection chain, the element or the supply, and all three are tested with the machine live.
Other DV pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
