The short answer
A BLDV dryer that tumbles without heat is most often a protection device that has opened because of restricted airflow, not a failed heating element. On this family the vent comes first in the order for that reason: replacing the thermal device without clearing the duct simply repeats the fault.
What you observe
- Drum turns normally but the air is cold — Everything mechanical is fine and the heat circuit is open somewhere.
- It heated until recently and stopped suddenly — A sudden loss points at a protection device rather than at gradual wear.
- Very long cycles before the heat stopped altogether — Classic history of a restricting duct, and it names the underlying cause.
- Lint visible around the outside vent hood — A restricted duct is backing lint up, which is the condition that opens the protection.
- NEAR MISS - the drum does not turn at all — That is a no-start or belt fault and belongs on the start page.
Causes, most likely first on BLDV
- Restricted or blocked exhaust duct — Ranked first on the BLDV family: on this family a restricted duct is the condition that opens the thermal protection, so it is the cause even when a fuse is the failed part. That is a family-level property rather than a model-level one, which is why it leads here. What moves against the brand-generic order is lower down: heating element or its circuit sits above cycling thermostat or thermistor here, because this family is a single build with fixed access points.
- Thermal fuse or high-limit device open — Second: these devices are one-shot on this platform, so they explain a sudden total loss of heat rather than a gradual fade.
- Heating element or its circuit — Third: a large appliance circuit is typically 30 A or higher at 240 V, and a dryer that has lost one leg tumbles perfectly while making no heat at all.
- Cycling thermostat or thermistor — Fourth: a drifted control sensor gives weak heat rather than none, so it sits below the one-shot devices in this order.
- Control board or the heat relay — Last: last, because the protection chain and the supply account for nearly every no-heat on this family.
Check in this order, and why
- Disconnect and inspect the whole exhaust duct — Do this first: it is both the commonest cause and the condition that destroyed whatever part failed.
- Check the outside vent hood opens and is clear — A flap held shut by lint restricts the run even when the duct itself is clean.
- Confirm the machine still tumbles and the timer advances — It separates a heat-circuit fault from a wider electrical fault.
- Have the supply checked if the machine runs on two legs — Losing one leg leaves the motor running and the heat dead, which is exactly this symptom.
Before you open anything
Safety
Kill the power before opening anything, and run the machine only with its panels fitted and its duct connected to the outside. The drum, the blower and the heater all move or get hot.
When to call a technician
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Clearing the duct is owner work and is the part that matters. Call for anything inside the cabinet: the protection devices sit next to the heater and are tested live.
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Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
