The short answer
The honest ranking for ice failure on BUC models puts the water path first and the ice maker itself last. That inverts the brand-generic order, and the reason is the build: this platform freezes a small quantity in a small compartment, so a marginal cabinet temperature is a real cause here rather than a theoretical one.
What you observe
- The cubes are small, hollow or misshapen — A partial fill. The water is arriving but not in the quantity the mould expects, which points at the supply pressure or a partly closed valve.
- Water in the bin or frozen under it — The fill is overshooting or the mould is not releasing cleanly, and the overflow freezes where it lands.
- The ice has fused into one block in the bin — Cubes that melt and refreeze together mean the compartment is riding warm between cycles, or the bin is being opened often in a warm room.
- The bin is empty and stays empty — Nothing is being made at all. That is a different fault from slow production and it points at supply or at power to the mechanism.
Causes, most likely first
- Water not reaching the mould — Ranked first on this family. A closed or partly closed supply, a kinked line behind the cabinet, or a valve that no longer opens fully will empty the bin without any other symptom.
- The compartment riding a little warm — Second, and the cause that most often hides. This platform freezes a small quantity in a small space, so a cabinet running a few degrees above where it should be will keep food cold and still not freeze ice at a useful rate.
- The shut-off arm or level sensor held up — The mechanism stops when it believes the bin is full. A bagged block of ice, a stored item leaning on the arm, or a sensor reading through frost will all produce a mechanism that has simply switched itself off.
- A jam in the mould or bridging in the bin — Ice that has partly melted and refrozen locks the mechanism, and the harvest then runs against a block it cannot shift. It is common after a power interruption or a spell with the door left ajar.
Check in this order
- Check the shut-off arm or sensor is free and nothing is leaning on it — It costs nothing and it explains a mechanism that is not even trying.
- Look at the size and shape of the last cubes that were made — Full cubes point away from the supply; small or hollow ones point straight at it.
- Listen for the harvest cycle running — A mechanism that cycles has power and a control; one that never moves does not.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Turn the supply off before pulling the cabinet out, and allow for the line being short - on a compact unit there is rarely enough slack to walk the cabinet far from the wall.
Models in the BUC family — The models this page covers, as the product spine lists them. The family spans a long model list, and the ranking below is what holds across all of it.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| BUC1100XB | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1100XS | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1100XW | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1400XB | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1400XS | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1400XW | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1700XB | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1700XS | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC1700XW | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC2100JB | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC2100JS | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC2100JW | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
| BUC2120M* | black-decker:refrigerator:buc |
When to call
The line on this family is the fill valve. Checking the tap, the line, the bin, the arm and the temperature is yours; replacing or testing the valve, the heater or the motor is a service call, because it means working in a cold compartment with the wiring exposed.
Other faults on this family
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