The RDTM answer in short
When an AVG RDTM refrigerator stops making ice, work the chain in order: is water arriving, is the compartment cold enough to freeze it, and is the harvest mechanism cycling. On these machines the first two links account for most cases, and both are checkable without opening anything up.
What this looks like in use
- Cubes have fused into one lump in the bin — On an RDTM model, that is slow melting and refreezing — a temperature or door-seal problem rather than an ice-maker fault.
- Production is slow rather than absent — On this family, a compartment slightly too warm slows every cycle without stopping any of them.
- The bin is empty and the mould is dry — Across the RDTM line, a dry mould is the clearest possible pointer: look at the valve, the line and the pressure.
- The mould holds water but it never releases — On this family, full cavities that stay full mean freezing or ejection, not supply.
- Cubes fuse into one lump in the bin — On an RDTM model, slow harvesting, a warm spell, or a door left ajar long enough to start a thaw.
- NEAR MISS — nothing in the cabinet is properly cold — Then ice is the least of it: the cooling-failure page is the right place, and ice will return when cold does.
Likely causes for RDTM models, most common first
- A closed, kinked or frozen water supply — First, because it is the most common and the cheapest: a saddle valve nobody opened fully, or a fill line pinched behind the cabinet.
- A shut-off arm or sensor held up by the ice already in the bin — It belongs here because emptying the bin is free and because it explains a maker that stopped without warning. For RDTM models the reasoning is identical.
- A bin of old ice that never turns over — Ice sublimates and shrinks in a dry compartment, so a bin nobody empties ends up full of small, fused, stale cubes.
- A failed ice-maker module or its wiring — Last: the module itself is the least likely link in the chain and the only one that is a parts-and-labour job. On RDTM models it earns that place.
Check in this order, and why
- Look at the bin-full arm or sensor first — Looking at RDTM models specifically, anything resting against it reads as a full bin and stops production dead, at zero cost to check.
- Look into the mould: wet or dry — On RDTM models, this single observation splits the page into two halves, so make it early.
- Put a thermometer in the freezer compartment — If it reads warmer, the ice fault is a cooling fault and belongs on a different page.
- Give it a full day after any change before judging — Ice production is slow by nature and a first harvest after a restart can take hours.
Read this before you start
Safety
Unplug the refrigerator or switch off its breaker before reaching into the maker or taking a panel off — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and the harvest mechanism can move while your fingers are in the mould. Never force a frozen mould with a metal tool: the heater and the sensor are in there and both are easy to destroy.
Models in the RDTM family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| RDTM181SE | avg:refrigerator:rdtm |
| RDTM181WE | avg:refrigerator:rdtm |
When to call a technician
The line is water: everything upstream of the valve is yours, and the valve, the module and the harvest mechanism are not. Bring someone in if the fill line is frozen repeatedly, because a recurring ice plug is usually a temperature or a routing fault that needs fixing properly rather than thawing again.
Other RDTM problems we cover
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
