The short answer
A compact dishwasher that does nothing when you press start is usually waiting rather than broken, and most often on this: the supply valve is closed or the inlet screen is blocked. Next on the list: the door latch is not making its switch. Everything at the top of this list is free to check.
What you observe
- Nothing happens when start is pressed — Note whether the panel lights up at all.
- It accepts start, hums briefly and then sits — It began and is waiting for water that is not arriving.
- The panel lights up and nothing happens — Power is present; permission to run is not.
- No display, no lights, nothing at all — A completely dead machine is usually a supply question.
- NEAR MISS — it starts and stops again within a minute — That is a cycle fault rather than a no-start, and it reads differently.
Causes, most likely first on this machine
- The supply valve is closed or the inlet screen is blocked — First here because most machines will not advance until they have taken their first fill, so no water presents as no start. The isolating valve under the sink is easy to knock shut while storing things, and the inlet screen silts up slowly.
- The door latch is not making its switch — Ranked here because it is the commonest no-start cause on any dishwasher and it costs nothing to test.
- The machine is not getting power — Ranked here because proving the supply first saves dismantling a machine that was never at fault.
- It will not restart because there is water left in the base — Last, but look in the base before anything else is suspected.
Check in this order, and why
- Find the isolating valve under the sink and check it is open — A machine that cannot fill will not advance past the start.
- Push the door firmly home and press start again — A latch that clicks can still fail to close its switch.
- Find the spur switch or the breaker for the machine — Dishwashers are often on a switch nobody remembers.
- Open the door and look for water standing in the base — A machine will not begin a cycle it cannot complete.
What an owner can safely check
- Check whether the panel lights up at all — A dead panel and a lit one that will not run are two different faults.
About 5 min
- Open the isolating valve fully and retry — If it was already open, note that for the technician.
Tools: torchAbout 15 min
- Close the door with a firm push and retry the programme — Never bridge the latch switch to prove a point.
About 5 min
- Check the spur switch under the counter and the breaker — A repeating trip is a fault to report, not to reset.
Tools: torchAbout 15 min
- STOP HERE before opening the door panel or the console — Never bridge a latch switch to prove a point.
Before you open anything
Safety
Switch the machine off at its spur or breaker before removing any panel, and close the isolating valve before touching a hose. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A countertop or slimline machine is light enough to move and heavy enough to hurt when it is full of water. Drain it before moving it, and keep the faucet adapter clear of a live outlet.
When to call a technician
Call once the supply is proven, the door latches firmly, no lock symbol is showing and the base is dry, and the machine still does nothing. What is left is inside the door panel. Call immediately if the breaker trips again on reset, or if you saw or smelled anything scorch.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the brand and the machine class, not for one family or model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your machine, that page is the more specific answer. Deliberately absent: place settings, adapter and hose part identifiers, cabinet dimensions and wiring colours, which differ between the countertop and slimline built-in families.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
