The short answer
On the HS family the first question is which models carry an ice maker at all, because within the family that is not a given. Cabinets in this class are sold with and without ice making and with manual trays, so an ice complaint here starts by establishing what the cabinet was built to do.
What you observe on these models
- No ice at all, and the tray or mould is dry — A dry mould means water is not arriving, which puts the fault in the supply rather than in the freezing.
- Ice is made but it is hollow, small or cloudy — Water is arriving but not enough of it, or not for long enough, which points at pressure and at the fill valve.
- Ice forms and then fuses into one block in the bin — That is a temperature and moisture problem in the storage, not a making problem.
- NEAR MISS - the whole cabinet is warm as well as ice-free — Ice stops early whenever a cabinet loses temperature, so a warm cabinet makes this a cooling fault and a different page.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Cabinet without an automatic maker, or with its maker switched off — First on this family. Across a model list of this shape, the ice hardware is an option rather than a fixture, and the maker also has an on and off state that a knock or a clean can change, and because the family is one platform whose model numbers share a prefix, the same fault turns up across the models listed above.
- Supply never connected or shut off at the valve — Second. A cabinet moved into a kitchen without a water point, or plumbed and then isolated, gives a maker that cycles dry indefinitely.
- Compartment temperature too high to harvest — Third. A freezer holds food safely at 0 degrees F (minus 18 degrees C) or below, and a compartment above that gives slow ice long before it gives none.
- Fill valve, mould and module — Last. These are the parts that fail in service, and they are worth money, so they come after the three checks above that cost nothing.
Check in this order, and why this family dictates it
- Confirm from the model number whether the cabinet has a maker fitted — The table above lists the models this page covers; the ice hardware is not common to all of them and this question settles half of these calls.
- Find the maker switch or the shut-off arm and confirm its state — Second: an off maker looks exactly like a broken one from the outside.
- Trace the water line back to its shut-off — Third, because a line that was never connected or has been isolated gives a dry mould and no other symptom.
- Then work the fill, freeze and harvest cycle in order — Last: once the cabinet is known to have working hardware and water, the normal supply and release checks apply.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, and close the water supply at its shut-off before disconnecting any line. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never use a knife, a screwdriver or a heat gun to free ice from a mould or an evaporator: the tubing behind it is thin-walled and a puncture turns a cheap job into a scrapped cabinet.
Models in the HS family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| HS-262CN(UR-BD202-DQ)-F | appliance-basics:refrigerator:hs |
| HS-262CN(UR-BD202-DQ)-R | appliance-basics:refrigerator:hs |
| HS259CNW | appliance-basics:refrigerator:hs |
| HS772FWENW | appliance-basics:refrigerator:hs |
When to call a technician
Call when the supply is proven good and the mould still fills short, when the fill valve drips after it closes, when the fill tube freezes again after being cleared, or when the compartment will not hold its temperature. Take the model number from the table above before calling, because the ice hardware is not identical across this model list.
Other faults covered for this family
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Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
