The short answer
On the REF family a leak is usually the tail end of a defrost problem: the cabinet is making far more water than the drain was designed to carry.
What you observe on these models
- Water pooling under the front edge of the cabinet — Water running forward along the floor of the compartment and out under the door is the classic blocked-drain pattern.
- A sheet of ice under the bottom drawer or on the compartment floor — Melt water that refreezes before it reaches the drain, which is the same blockage seen earlier in its life.
- Water at the back of the cabinet or under the compressor — That is the drain pan overflowing or a dislodged drain hose, and it is a different repair from the one above.
- NEAR MISS - a steady puddle that grows while the machine is idle — Water that keeps coming when the cabinet is not running is a supply-line leak, and that is a plumbing fault rather than a defrost one.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Heavy evaporator icing releasing a surge of water — First on this family. A cabinet whose defrost has been struggling builds a sheet of ice, and when it finally clears, the drain cannot take the volume in the time available, and on a single-model family there is no configuration question to settle first.
- Drain frozen at the outlet rather than blocked at the inlet — Second, and it is the reason the first one recurs.
- Door seal or an ajar door feeding the ice — Third: warm humid air entering the cabinet is what built the ice load in the first place, so the seal is the underlying cause of both of the above on a good many of these.
- Drain pan and supply fittings — Last. These produce water at the back rather than the front, and the position of the puddle separates them from everything above without opening anything.
Check in this order, and why this family dictates it
- Look at the rear wall of the cold compartment for an ice sheet — A sheet rather than a dusting tells you the leak is a defrost story and sets the whole direction of the repair.
- Pour warm water down the drain and time how it goes away — Second: a drain that takes it slowly is part-frozen at the outlet, which is a different fix from a blocked inlet.
- Paper-test the door seal all the way round — Third, because on this family the seal is what fed the ice, and leaving it makes the repair temporary.
- Check the pan and the fittings at the back last — They explain water behind the cabinet, not in front of it, so they come after the front-of-cabinet causes are settled.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, and mop up standing water before you work near the machine. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and water on a floor next to a running appliance is a shock risk in its own right. Close the water shut-off before touching any supply fitting.
Models in the REF family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| REF-21 | aog:refrigerator:ref |
When to call a technician
Call when the drain will not clear with warm water, when it blocks again within weeks of being cleared, when there is a heavy ice sheet on the evaporator, or when the water is arriving from a fitting you cannot reach. Note the model number from the table above so the correct gasket or drain kit comes with the visit.
Other faults covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
