The short answer
An Amana SR that makes no ice, or makes hollow and undersized cubes, is telling you about water flow and freezer temperature before it tells you about the ice maker itself. The matrix on this page is the definitive list for this family: one model number. Both of those are checkable from the front of the cabinet, which is why they rank above the module.
What you observe at the dispenser and the bin
- No ice at all and a full water line — Water is available at the dispenser but the bin stays empty, which separates a supply fault from a module fault immediately.
- Hollow, undersized or cloudy cubes — Cubes that crumble or come out half-formed point at how much water arrives per cycle rather than at the freezing.
- The shut-off arm or sensor is holding the cycle off — The bin reads as full when it is empty, because the arm is propped or the sensor window has frosted over.
- Water pooling under the bin or freezing in the fill tube — A plug of ice in the fill tube that grows a little with every cycle until nothing gets through at all.
- The module cycles and nothing is ejected — The rake turns on schedule over an empty tray, which is a supply fault seen from the mechanism end.
- NEAR MISS — the whole freezer is soft and the cabinet is warm — Then this is a cooling failure and the ice maker is only the first thing you noticed; the cooling page is the right one.
Causes, most likely first on the SR line
- Freezer temperature too high to finish a cycle — First on the SR line because ice is the first thing a freezer gives up when it runs warm. The bin empties while the food is still perfectly frozen, which is why this cause is missed so consistently.
- Water supply restricted at the valve, line or filter — Second: a spent filter or a half-closed supply valve starves the fill, producing small cubes before it produces none.
- Fill tube frozen or the shut-off arm held up — Third. They look like a dead module from the front, and neither needs a part.
- Inlet valve or ice maker module failure — Last: the actual component failures, reached once the three states above are cleared.
What to check first, second, third
- Measure the freezer temperature with a thermometer — First because production stops on temperature long before food thaws, so a warm freezer is both the commonest cause and the easiest to miss.
- Check the freezer door seals and whether the bin or a basket is holding the door off — A freezer that cannot hold temperature usually has a reason at the door first.
- Press the dispenser to confirm water is arriving — With temperature accounted for, the supply is the next thing that must be true.
- Inspect the fill tube and the shut-off arm — Inspect the fill tube and the shut-off arm last: they need the bin removed and they are where an adjustment becomes a repair.
Before you open anything
Safety
Isolate the appliance at its breaker or unplug it before removing the module or any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Shut the household water valve before disconnecting anything, and keep a towel under the joint: the line stays pressurised after the appliance is dead. Thaw a frozen fill tube with warm water, never with a flame or a heat gun.
Models in the SR family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| SR3711AMS | amana:refrigerator:sr |
When to call a technician
Book a technician when the fill valve, the module or the freezer temperature turns out to be the answer, and book one immediately if the freezer is also failing to hold food. On the SR line the practical boundary is whether the repair breaks a water joint — if it does, it is worth having done rather than attempted.
Nearest pages of this class
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