The short answer
Noise complaints on the FC line resolve faster when the sound is placed before it is named. Two model numbers carry this family badge, and the matrix on this page is the list. There are three places a refrigerator can make noise — inside the freezer, in the machine compartment, and through the cabinet into the floor — and each has a short list of its own.
The noises worth acting on
- A chirp, squeal or grind from inside the freezer — Sound that disappears the moment the freezer door opens is the evaporator fan by definition — nothing else is switched that way.
- A buzz or hum that has become noticeably louder — Hum that you feel through the floor more than you hear in the room is usually mounting or levelling, not the motor.
- Gurgling, popping or a running-water sound — Water running into the drain pan and plastic ticking as it contracts: both normal, both louder in a quiet room.
- NEAR MISS — the noise comes with a warm cabinet — Then the noise is secondary and the cooling failure is the page you want; fix the cooling and the noise usually goes with it.
Causes, most likely first on the FC line
- Cabinet levelling and floor contact — Ranked first on the FC line because this family is a tight one — two model numbers under one badge — a cabinet that is not sitting square transmits normal running noise into the floor, and it costs nothing to rule out.
- Condenser fan obstruction — Second because a fan clipping something in the machine compartment sounds far worse than it is and is visible the moment the unit is pulled out.
- Evaporator fan bearing or ice contact — Third: it needs the freezer opened and the door switch held in, which is why it sits behind the two checks that need neither.
- Compressor or start device — Last: least likely of the four and the only one where continuing to run the appliance is a bad idea.
Check in this order, and why
- Check the cabinet is level and standing on all its feet — A unit that has been moved is the commonest reason an appliance suddenly sounds worse.
- Make sure nothing touches the sides, the back or the top — A cabinet resting against a wall turns a normal hum into a resonance that fills the room.
- Pull the unit out and watch the condenser fan — With the cabinet itself cleared, the next candidate is the fan that runs in the open compartment.
- Open the freezer and hold the door switch in — Open the freezer and hold the door switch in last, because this is the check that turns into a repair if it confirms.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. If you hold the freezer door switch in to test the evaporator fan, keep your fingers well clear of the blade: that switch exists to stop the fan when the door opens. Never run the cabinet with the machine-compartment cover off.
Models in the FC family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| FC2-671 | amana:refrigerator:fc |
| FC2-671.IM | amana:refrigerator:fc |
Where owner work stops
Call once the sound has been located behind the freezer rear panel, or when it tracks the compressor exactly. On the FC line an owner can level the cabinet, clear an obstruction and say which compartment the noise comes from; replacing a fan motor, a relay or a compressor mount is a service call.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
