The short answer
An ice maker on the AQU line that has stopped producing is usually being starved of water or being held off by its own shut-off arm, not broken. The model matrix on this page lists thirteen model numbers under this family badge. The checks below run supply first and mechanism last, because the supply faults are the common ones and the only ones an owner can settle without a tool.
What the owner notices
- Hollow, undersized or cloudy cubes — Cubes that crumble or come out half-formed point at how much water arrives per cycle rather than at the freezing.
- Cubes fused into one solid block in the bin — Partial thawing and refreezing, usually from a freezer that is not holding temperature or a door that is not sealing.
- The shut-off arm or sensor is holding the cycle off — The mechanism reads the bin as full, and it will keep doing so until the arm is freed or the sensor window cleared.
- Water pooling under the bin or freezing in the fill tube — A partly frozen fill tube is the cause that gets worse cycle by cycle until it stops production entirely.
- The module cycles and nothing is ejected — An audible cycle with no harvest is a supply symptom seen from the mechanism end.
- NEAR MISS — the whole freezer is soft and the cabinet is warm — Then this is a cooling failure and the ice maker is only the first thing you noticed; the cooling page is the right one.
Causes, most likely first on the AQU line
- Water supply: closed valve, kinked line or a spent filter — Ranked first on the AQU line: the matrix on this page spans enough models to cross more than one production run and the supply path is outside the appliance entirely, so it fails the same way regardless of which model in the table you own.
- Shut-off arm lifted or the bin sensor blocked — Second, and it is the cause that produces the most unnecessary part orders — nothing has failed, the module has simply been told to stop.
- Freezer not cold enough to complete a harvest — Third — it explains hollow cubes and a slow bin better than any mechanical fault does, and it points back at the cooling system.
- Fill valve, fill tube ice or the module itself — Last. A valve that no longer opens or a module that no longer cycles is a genuine repair, but it is the least likely of the four.
The check order on these models
- Press the door dispenser if the cabinet has one — Water there proves the supply, the shut-off valve and the filter are all passing, and no water ends the diagnosis outside the appliance.
- Lift the bin and look at the shut-off arm and the sensor window — A mechanism that has stopped itself looks exactly like one that has failed, and this costs nothing to rule out.
- Leave a thermometer in the freezer overnight — A freezer holds food safely at 0 °F (−18 °C) or below, and production stops well above that, so a warm freezer explains poor ice on its own.
- Look at the fill tube for ice and listen for the fill — Look at the fill tube and listen for the fill last, because both need the bin out and the module exposed.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before working on the ice maker; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Do not chip ice out of the tray or the rake with a knife or a screwdriver — the tray cracks, and what is behind it is not repairable at home.
Models in the AQU family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| AQU1203TRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1223BRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1501TRW* | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1525AEW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1613TEW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1613TEW* | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1626BEW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1627BRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1824BRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU1827BRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU2003TRW* | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU2024BRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
| AQU2027BRW | amana:refrigerator:aqu |
Where owner work stops
Call once supply, mechanism state and freezer temperature are all clean and the bin is still empty. On the AQU line the owner side ends at the filter, the shut-off arm and a thermometer; replacing an inlet valve, a fill tube or the module means the cabinet is opened and a water line is broken. Call sooner if you find water under the cabinet rather than only inside the freezer.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
