The short answer
On the AMAR refrigerators where the water appears is most of the diagnosis: the door, the back of the cabinet and the inside of the liner each mean something different. On these models a blocked defrost drain is the first thing this page would have you rule out. The list below ends with the one cause on it that is not owner work.
What you observe on these models
- Water at the back of the cabinet rather than at the door — The back is the pan and the supply; the door is the drain.
- Ice outside the mould, on the shelf or down the back wall — A fill is overshooting or is aimed wrongly.
- A steady drip near the filter head — The head is under supply pressure whether the appliance runs or not.
- NEAR MISS — the box is warm as well as wet — Start with the cooling page for this family.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Defrost drain frozen or blocked — The signature is water at the front of the appliance in a pool that arrives on a cycle rather than steadily. First, because it accounts for every observable above without needing a second fault. One design carries every cabinet size in this family, so it holds across the line.
- Drain trough behind the evaporator blocked — Clearing it properly means taking the freezer rear panel off, which is where this stops being an owner job on most designs. It ranks second — the fault the first check leaves standing.
- Drain pan cracked or out of position — Everything the defrost drain removes ends up in the pan to evaporate; a pan that is cracked or off its rails puts it on the floor instead. Third: a real cause on these cabinets, but a less frequent one.
- Water inlet valve or its fitting weeping — The water arrives at the back on the supply side, and it arrives whether or not the appliance is running. Last, which is exactly why the checks above are worth spending first.
- Body: Against the brand-wide order, airflow causes move up and installation causes down: the ladder spans cabinet sizes, and the largest cabinets in it load the airflow path hardest, which is where this fault shows first.
Check in this order, and why
- Take the bottom drawer out and look for a sheet of ice across the freezer floor. — First, because it settles the top of the ranking before anything else is touched.
- Note how long the leak stays away after the drain is cleared: a few weeks means the trough, not the tube. — Next, once the check above has come back clean.
- Cut the power, look under the back of the cabinet and check the pan is intact and properly seated. — Last, so that nothing further is spent until the cheaper checks are exhausted.
Before you take a panel off
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Leave the door switch wired as it is: it cuts power to the evaporator fan for a reason. Dry the floor before pulling the appliance out, and keep water away from the electrical parts at the base of the cabinet.
Models in the AMAR family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| AMAR27**E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
| AMAR27S1E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
| AMAR31T**E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
| AMAR35**E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
| AMAR35S1E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
| AMAR43**E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
| AMAR46TS1E | amana:refrigerator:amar |
When to call a technician
Owner work ends at the rear panel. If the drain clears, the pan is sound, the cabinet is level and water still arrives, what is left is behind sheet metal. Call at once if there is water under a socket.
The other faults covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
