The short answer
On an entry-level Akai a single click at each start is the exposed relay and is normal; a repeated click with no running is a fault. After that the commonest noise is the back pipework tapping a wall, which is cured by pulling the cabinet forward. Levelling is third, and shelves and contents fourth.
What you observe
- One click as the compressor starts and stops — The exposed start relay. Normal here.
- A click every few seconds with no running — The relay failing to start the compressor.
- A tap or rattle from the back panel — Condenser pipework against a wall or itself.
- The cabinet rocks when pushed at a top corner — Not level, so a foot drums as it starts.
- NEAR MISS — gurgling after it stops — Refrigerant settling. Entirely normal.
Causes, most likely first on this brand
- Back pipework tapping a wall or itself — First because the condenser is fixed to the outside of the back panel on this class, with nothing enclosing it. Pushed against a wall it taps at every start and stop, and pulling the cabinet forward cures it.
- Start relay clicking — Second, and the distinction matters: one click per start is the exposed relay working normally, while a click every few seconds with no run is a genuine fault and comes with a warm cabinet.
- Cabinet not level, or touching joinery — Third: a light entry-level shell rocking on one foot drums on the floor, and pressed against a unit it plays into the furniture instead.
- Fan or compressor fault — Last, and only relevant on a frost-free cabinet, which has fans a static one does not. A hard knock or growl from the compressor is the one that ends the machine.
Check in this order, and why
- Count the clicks and note whether it then runs — One click is normal; repeated clicking is a fault.
- Pull the cabinet clear of the wall — Free, and it is the top cause on this class.
- Rock the cabinet and check it sits on all feet — Settles the drumming complaints outright.
- Move shelves and contents and listen again — Left until here because it only explains rattles.
What an owner can safely check
- Pull the cabinet forward and leave air behind it — Check nothing on the back panel touches the wall.
About 20 min
- Listen through two or three start cycles — Note whether a click is followed by the compressor running.
About 30 min
- Level the cabinet until it does not rock at all — Check both diagonals, not just side to side.
Tools: spirit levelAbout 25 min
- Reseat shelves and move rattling contents — Then run it and listen from the same place.
About 15 min
- STOP HERE if it clicks repeatedly and will not run — Relay and compressor work is a service call.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the refrigerator before reaching behind it or touching the back panel; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and the start relay sits directly on the compressor terminals. The condenser pipework at the back gets hot in normal use. Never open a sealed refrigerant line to chase a noise, and stop using the cabinet if the plug or lead is warm.
When to call a technician
Call when the cabinet is clear of the wall, level, the shelves are settled and a noise remains — the mounts, a fan or the compressor is then the answer. Call sooner for a repeated click with no running, because that usually comes with a cabinet that is not cold. At this price point ask for the cost against a replacement.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the brand and the appliance class, not for one family or model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit, that page is the more specific answer and you should start there. Deliberately absent: relay and compressor part identifiers, clearance dimensions, pipework layouts and fault-code meanings, all of which differ between the static single-door, frost-free top-freezer and under-counter families.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
