The short answer
On an AEG Electrolux dishwasher, water leaking most often comes back to the door seal, with a pump seal that has started to pass close behind. The AEG Electrolux badge belongs to the transitional generation of European machines, so every unit still in a kitchen has been washing for many years. That puts the first move in your hands rather than a technician’s: work the checks below in order and stop at the first one that explains what you are seeing.
What you are seeing
- What this fault looks like, and which observations point somewhere else.
- water on the floor at the front of the machine after a cycle
- a damp cabinet floor or a stained cabinet side
- water only when a particular program or a particular load is run
- a puddle that appears during the fill rather than during the wash
- Not this fault: if it is steam and water at one door edge, read the door-seal page
Ranked causes on this platform
- Ranked for an AEG Electrolux dishwasher, which runs an earlier-generation controller whose indicator sequence, not a numeric display, reports the fault on many models. No measured frequency exists for this address, so the order is platform judgement rather than a share.
- The door seal — Why: A seal that has taken a set leaks at the bottom corners first, which is why the water appears at the foot of the door.
- A pump seal that has started to pass — Why: A leaking pump wets the floor of the cabinet under the machine rather than the kitchen floor, so it is found late.
- A supply or drain connection weeping — Why: A connection leaks continuously rather than in cycles, so a puddle that grows while the machine is idle points here.
- Foam from the wrong detergent — Why: Hand detergent produces foam that climbs out past a perfectly good seal, and the machine is blamed for the soap.
- A load deflecting water at the door — Why: A large flat item on edge turns the wash into a jet at one point, and the leak follows that load rather than the machine.
What to check, in order
- The order follows the ranking above: most likely and cheapest first, nothing needing a meter until everything else is eliminated.
- The door seal — Because: a seal that has taken a set leaks at the bottom corners first.
- A pump seal that has started to pass — Because: a leaking pump wets the floor of the cabinet under the machine rather than the kitchen floor, so it is found late.
- A supply or drain connection weeping — Because: a connection leaks continuously rather than in cycles, so a puddle that grows while the machine is idle points here.
Checks you can safely do yourself
- Isolate the appliance before any panel comes off, and stop at the first step that explains the fault.
- Run a finger round the seal for flat spots and check it is home in its channel. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- With the circuit off, reach under the machine with a dry paper towel and check the cabinet floor. — Tools: paper towel and a torch — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Dry everything, lay paper towel under each connection and read it after several hours. — Tools: paper towel and a torch — Time estimate: leave it overnight
- Run a rinse with no detergent and see whether the floor stays dry. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: one cycle
- Stop condition: Stop there: the next step means metering live terminals or opening a sealed system.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, because a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Isolate the circuit before reaching into the sump, and treat the water in a machine that has just run as hot enough to scald. Never defeat the door latch to run the machine open; the latch switch exists to stop the wash the moment the door moves.
When to call a technician
Call a technician when the leak is from the pump or the tub rather than from a connection, when the machine has to come out of the cabinet to find it, or when water has been reaching cabinetry or flooring for some time. Switch the circuit off before working near a machine that is leaking onto its own base.
The fact bundle for this address was empty, so no warehouse figure appears. Every number on the page is a program safety constant, cited to its publisher. — Sources
General guidance- 1910.147 — The control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout) — Occupational Safety and Health Administration, fetched 2026-09-06
Other faults documented for this brand and appliance. — Nearest pages of the same kind
What this page does not cover
This page is generalized across every AEG Electrolux dishwasher family and model number: no family fault list, no model parts list, and no measured figure from the program warehouse. Where a family- or model-specific page exists it goes deeper, and it should be preferred over this one.
Links: - [Common AEG Electrolux Dishwasher Problems](/blog/aeg-electrolux-dishwasher-problems) - [AEG Electrolux Dishwasher: Abnormal Noise or Vibration](/blog/aeg-electrolux-dishwasher-abnormal-noise) - [AEG Electrolux Dishwasher: Does Not Clean or Dry](/blog/aeg-electrolux-dishwasher-cleaning-performance)
Adjacent pages for what this one rules out. — Where to go next
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
