The short answer
Start with the filter on an AEG: it twists out by hand and a loaded one is the commonest reason water stays in the sump. A drain hose kinked behind fitted joinery is second and needs the machine pulled out. A jammed pump impeller is third, and a waste connection fault — including a blanking plug never removed — is last.
What you observe
- Water standing above the filter at the end — It never drained rather than drained slowly.
- The filter is packed with debris — The commonest cause and an owner clean.
- A hum from the pump with nothing moving — The impeller is jammed by something hard.
- It has never drained since it was installed — Points at the waste connection, not the machine.
- NEAR MISS — a film of water over the filter — Normal. It keeps the seals from drying out.
Causes, most likely first on this brand
- Filter assembly loaded with debris — First because the platform relies on the owner cleaning it, and that job is skipped for months at a time. Once it blocks, water simply cannot reach the pump.
- Drain hose kinked behind the cabinet — Second, and invisible: the hose runs out of sight behind fitted joinery, and pushing the machine back after any work traps it against the wall or the waste pipe.
- Pump impeller jammed — Third: glass, a fruit stone or a label reaches the impeller past a filter that was refitted loose. Its tell is a hum with no water moving.
- Waste connection blocked or never opened — Last. On a machine that has never drained since installation, the usual answer is a blanking plug still in the sink waste spigot.
Check in this order, and why
- Twist out the filter and look at what it holds — Free, owner-serviceable and the top cause here.
- Listen at the drain step for a hum or silence — A hum names a jammed impeller straight away.
- Pull the machine out and follow the drain hose — The kink is behind the cabinet and nowhere else.
- Check the sink waste spigot on a newer install — Left until here, but it is decisive when it applies.
What an owner can safely check
- Bail the sump, then twist out and rinse the filter — Clear the fine mesh and the coarse screen, then lock it back.
Tools: jug, spongeAbout 25 min
- Run a drain programme and listen underneath — Note whether the pump hums, runs, or does nothing.
About 20 min
- Switch off, pull the machine out and follow the hose — Straighten any kink and keep the high loop intact.
About 40 min
- Check the connection at the sink waste — On a recent installation, look for an unopened spigot.
Tools: torchAbout 20 min
- STOP HERE if the pump hums and shifts nothing — Clearing the impeller means opening the machine.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the machine or switch off its breaker before reaching into the sump or moving it; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Broken glass is common in a blocked sump, so wear gloves and look before you reach. Never run the machine with the filter removed, and take care pulling an integrated machine out — the furniture door and the worktop above it are easily damaged.
When to call a technician
Call when the filter is clean, the hose is straight and the machine still holds its water — the pump or the non-return valve is then the answer and both are inside the cabinet. Call a plumber instead if the sink itself drains slowly or the waste connection was never opened. Stop and unplug the machine if the breaker trips when the drain step starts.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the brand and the appliance class, not for one family or model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit, that page is the more specific answer and you should start there. Deliberately absent: hose diameters, pump and valve part identifiers, waste spigot sizes and fault-code meanings, all of which differ between the integrated, freestanding and slimline families.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
