The short answer
On an Acekool dishwasher, water left in the machine most often comes back to a drain hose without a high loop or run too high, with a blocked filter stack and sump close behind. That tank option changes the fault list completely: a machine that will not wash may simply be a machine that was not filled, and a machine that leaks may be a machine that was overfilled. That puts the first move in your hands rather than a technician’s: work the checks below in order and stop at the first one that explains what you are seeing.
What you are seeing
- What this fault looks like, and which observations point somewhere else.
- a drain that runs briefly and then stops with the tub still full
- dirty water appearing in the tub between cycles
- the machine stopping mid-cycle with a code and a full tub
- water backing up into the sink or the air gap when the machine drains
- Not this fault: if the water is on the floor rather than in the tub, read the leak page
- Not this fault: if the tub is empty but the dishes are dirty, read the cleaning page
Ranked causes on this platform
- Ranked for an Acekool dishwasher, which runs a membrane touch panel with indicator lights rather than a service display. No measured frequency exists for this address, so the order is platform judgement rather than a share.
- A drain hose without a high loop or run too high — Why: Without a loop the machine siphons and refills; run too high it cannot lift the water at all.
- A blocked filter stack and sump — Why: The drain path starts at the filter, so nothing downstream matters until the filter is clean.
- A drain pump jammed or worn — Why: Glass, grit and labels reach the impeller through the filter and stop it, and the pump then hums without moving water.
- A kinked, crushed or badly routed drain hose — Why: A hose crushed behind the machine at installation is the fault that appears the day after a kitchen is finished.
- A blocked air gap at the sink — Why: The air gap is the smallest passage in the whole drain path and it clogs first, which is why the sink overflows during a drain.
What to check, in order
- The order follows the ranking above: most likely and cheapest first, nothing needing a meter until everything else is eliminated.
- A drain hose without a high loop or run too high — Because: without a loop the machine siphons and refills.
- A blocked filter stack and sump — Because: the drain path starts at the filter, so nothing downstream matters until the filter is clean.
- A drain pump jammed or worn — Because: glass, grit and labels reach the impeller through the filter and stop it, and the pump then hums without moving water.
Checks you can safely do yourself
- Isolate the appliance before any panel comes off, and stop at the first step that explains the fault.
- Confirm the hose rises to a high point under the counter before it falls to the waste connection. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Twist out the filter stack, wash it, and sponge the sump clear of debris. — Tools: a sponge, a brush and gloves — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Isolate the machine, remove the filter and check the pump inlet is clear and turns freely. — Tools: a torch and gloves — Time estimate: allow half an hour
- Look behind the machine at the hose run and free it from anything pressing on it. — Tools: a torch — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Stop condition: Stop there: the next step means metering live terminals or opening a sealed system.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, because a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Isolate the circuit before reaching into the sump, and treat the water in a machine that has just run as hot enough to scald. Never defeat the door latch to run the machine open; the latch switch exists to stop the wash the moment the door moves.
When to call a technician
Call a technician when the filter, hose and air gap are clear and the pump still will not move water, when the pump has to be reached from underneath the machine, or when waste backs up into the sink from the house drain. Standing water left in a machine for days is a reason to stop using it.
The fact bundle for this address was empty, so no warehouse figure appears. Every number on the page is a program safety constant, cited to its publisher. — Sources
General guidance- 1910.147 — The control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout) — Occupational Safety and Health Administration, fetched 2026-09-06
Other faults documented for this brand and appliance. — Nearest pages of the same kind
What this page does not cover
This page is generalized across every Acekool dishwasher family and model number: no family fault list, no model parts list, and no measured figure from the program warehouse. Where a family- or model-specific page exists it goes deeper, and it should be preferred over this one.
Links: - [Common Acekool Dishwasher Problems](/blog/acekool-dishwasher-problems) - [Acekool Dishwasher: Abnormal Noise or Vibration](/blog/acekool-dishwasher-abnormal-noise) - [Acekool Dishwasher: Does Not Clean or Dry](/blog/acekool-dishwasher-cleaning-performance)
Adjacent pages for what this one rules out. — Where to go next
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
