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Bertazzoni cooktop burner not lighting and showing E6? A gas-burner ignition fault has locked out. Learn the causes, why it is a technician job, and the cost.

Bosch dishwasher E02 points at a control-board relay fault, not a downstream part. What it means, when E03 rides with it, repair cost, and what to check before calling a tech.

Bosch dishwasher E04 is a heater-electronics fault — the triac that switches the flow-through heater has shorted or the board cannot control it. Cost, hard-water cause, and safety steps.

Bosch dishwasher E06 is a door-sensor fault — the board never saw the door confirm closed. Why the reed switch is usually to blame, the magnet test, and what an E06 repair costs.

Bosch dishwasher E07 is a CrystalDry fan-motor fault — the fan that pushes hot air through the zeolite has stalled. Why steam corrosion is usually to blame and what the repair costs.

Bosch dishwasher E14 is a flow-meter fault — the Hall-effect turbine that measures fill has jammed on sediment or scale. Why a vinegar soak often fixes it and what a repair costs.

Bosch and Gaggenau dishwasher F2 is a wash-motor fault — the water sits still because the impeller never turns. Why it is a professional repair, the breaker-trip safety note, and cost.

Bosch and Gaggenau dishwasher F3 is an NTC temperature-sensor fault — the board lost a trustworthy water-temperature reading. Why a corroded sump connector is often the cause, and cost.

Bosch and Gaggenau dishwasher F4 combines heater-element and sensor detection in one code — cold water all cycle. Why the heater fails first in hard water, the voltage safety note, and cost.

Bosch oven E4 is a shorted temperature sensor — the board reads freezing-cold and slams on full heat. Why it is more urgent than E3, the harness-vs-probe test, and repair cost.

Bosch washer E18 is a drain timeout — usually a clogged pump filter you can clean in five minutes. How to clear it safely, when a buzzing pump means a new part, and the cost ceiling.

A1 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means heater not reaching temperature. Repair cost $180–$380, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

A2 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means thermistor reading out of range. Repair cost $160–$320, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

A3 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means heater relay stuck on the control module. Repair cost $250–$500, likely causes, and safe DIY checks.

A4 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means water temperature control fault. Repair cost $240–$480, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F1 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means water leak detected in the base. Repair cost $150–$400, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F2 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means wash pump motor fault. Repair cost $250–$500, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F3 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means water fill fault. Repair cost $150–$350, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F9 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means overflow detected in the drawer. Repair cost $200–$450, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

Frigidaire dishwasher Er is a membrane switch error, almost always damp getting into the touchpad. Dry the console out first — cost, DIY steps.

Frigidaire dishwasher i10 is a water fill timeout — the tub did not fill in time. Usually a half-closed supply valve, a kinked line, or a scaled inlet screen.

Frigidaire dishwasher iC0 is a turbidity sensor fault — the optical soil sensor reads permanent murk when its window films over. Descale and polish the lens...

Frigidaire dryer E4A is an open exhaust thermistor — the board loses its read on exhaust temperature and locks the dryer out. Why it will not start.

Frigidaire dryer E5C is a motor stall — the drive motor bogs down and stops mid-cycle. Often an overpacked drum or a belt on the shaft; sometimes a failing...

Frigidaire dryer E61 is low heating — warm but never truly hot. Usually a half-tripped breaker feeding one supply leg, sometimes a partially shorted element.

Frigidaire dryer E63 is heater over-temperature, a fire-safety trip. Almost always choked airflow; sometimes a stuck cycling thermostat. Do not use until...

Frigidaire dryer E68 is a heater relay stuck on — contacts welded closed so the element stays energized. A fire risk: unplug immediately. The main board is...

Frigidaire dryer EAF is an airflow restriction warning — the exhaust cannot escape fast enough. Almost always a clogged screen, duct, or crushed transition.

Frigidaire dryer EF0 is no heat detected. On gas, usually worn valve coils or a bad igniter; on electric, an open element; either fuel, a blown thermal fuse.

Frigidaire microwave F5 is a humidity sensor error — the steam sensor that times auto-cook modes is fouled. Cleaning the grille fixes most cases.
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