The short answer
On a True refrigerator, a refrigerator makes water on purpose — every defrost cycle produces it — so a leak is almost always a drainage problem rather than a plumbing one. Where the water appears tells you which: inside under the crispers means the drain, on the floor at the front means the drain has overflowed, and behind the cabinet means the supply. Because the badge covers two very different product families, the first job on this page is to work out which kind of cabinet you have, and the ranking says how.
What you are actually seeing
- Droplets on the inside of the cabinet after each opening — Condensation from room air, not a leak.
- Ice building under the ice bin — Fill water is overshooting the mould.
- A puddle appearing at the front of the cabinet on the floor — The inside trough has overflowed and is running out under the door.
- NEAR MISS — the leak only appears when the dishwasher or the sink runs — Then the water is not coming from the refrigerator at all. Check what shares that floor.
Causes, most likely first on this refrigerator
- The defrost drain has stopped draining — Ranked first on True: a cabinet opened constantly makes much more defrost water than a domestic one, so any restriction in the drain shows up quickly. On this one, remember that the badge spans commercial and residential cabinets, so establish which one you have before anything else.
- Warm damp air entering past the door seal and condensing inside — Second: in a kitchen the room air is warm and wet, and a door held open while someone loads a tray puts a litre of moisture in each time.
- A dispenser valve that keeps weeping after it shuts — Third: it is small, it is slow, and it is the only cause here where the water arrives in the door rather than in the cabinet.
- Ice maker overfilling, or the fill tube spilling past the mould — Ranked last here, deliberately: it produces a sheet of ice under the bin and then water on the floor when that sheet melts, which is a very specific signature.
Check in this order, and why
- First — look for water or ice under the crisper drawers and at the back of the compartment — Water pooling inside the cabinet is a drain fault until proven otherwise, and nothing else looks like it.
- Then — test the seal with a strip of paper all the way round the door — Free movement anywhere means room air is walking in at that point.
- Only then — look for a slab of ice under or behind the ice bin — Ice where ice should not be tells you the fill is overshooting rather than that the cabinet is leaking, which is why it comes after everything above it.
What an owner can safely check
- Find the drain outlet at the back of the compartment and flush it — Take the drawers out, find the trough and its outlet, and ease warm water down it until it runs away freely.
Tools: warm water, turkey baster or syringeAbout 25 min
- Switch the ice maker off for a day and watch whether the leak stops — It is the cleanest single test on this page and it needs no tools.
About 5 min
- STOP here if the next thing to check is behind a fixed panel — Everything above can be done without tools on live parts. Past this point it is a technician job.
Before you open anything
Safety
Water and electricity share this space. Unplug the cabinet or switch its breaker off before you mop up anything under or behind it, and before any panel comes off. Do not run an extension lead across a wet floor to keep the unit going.
When it stops being an owner job
Call when the drain will not clear with warm water, when the leak is behind the cabinet at a plumbing joint you cannot reach or re-make, or when water keeps arriving after the ice maker has been off for a day. Call immediately if water is reaching an electrical connection, if the floor covering is lifting, or if there is water plus a rise in cabinet temperature — that pair means the defrost system, and it will not fix itself.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the True refrigerator as a class, not for one family or one model line. Where a family-specific page exists for your unit it is linked above and it is the more specific answer. Deliberately not here: part numbers, wiring colours, torque figures and any measured value, all of which differ by family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
