Samsung Washer Not Heating Water — Thermistor, Heater Element, and HE Error on WF Models

When a Samsung washer does not heat water properly, it is important to first understand whether your model even HAS an internal water heater. Many US-market Samsung washers rely entirely on your home's hot water supply and have no internal heating element. Models with internal heaters (typically WF models with "Steam" or sanitize cycles) display the HE, HE1, or HE2 error code when the heating system fails.

Does Your Samsung Washer Have an Internal Heater?

Models WITH internal heaters: WF45R6100AW, WF50R8500AV, WF56H9100AG, and other models featuring "Steam Wash", "Sanitize", or "AllergyCare" cycles. These models have a tubular heating element inside the outer tub.

Models WITHOUT internal heaters: Basic WF and most WA models — these rely on your home's hot water heater for warm/hot cycles. If your model does not have Steam/Sanitize cycle buttons, it almost certainly has no internal heater.

For models without heaters: If water is not hot enough, the issue is your home's water heater (thermostat set too low), a failed hot solenoid in the inlet valve, or reversed supply hose connections. See our Samsung washer no hot/cold water guide.

For Models WITH Internal Heaters

How Samsung's Wash Heater Works

Samsung's internal heater is a tubular element (similar to a water heater element) mounted in the outer tub. The thermistor (temperature sensor) monitors water temperature and reports to the control board. The board energizes the heater element until target temperature is reached, then cycles it on/off to maintain temperature during the wash phase.

HE Error Code Family

Most Common Causes

1. Thermistor (Temperature Sensor) Failure (35% of cases)

The thermistor is a small probe (NTC type) mounted in the outer tub wall, immersed in the wash water. It reports temperature to the control board. If the thermistor reads incorrectly (shorted = reads too hot, open = reads too cold), the board either:

• Never turns on the heater (if it thinks water is already hot enough) — resulting in cold washes
• Displays HE1 (if it thinks water exceeded 95C)

Samsung thermistor resistance: At room temperature (25C), Samsung's NTC thermistor should read approximately 40,000-50,000 ohms. As temperature increases, resistance drops. Infinite resistance (open) or near-zero resistance (shorted) indicates failure.

DIY Difficulty: Easy — the thermistor is accessible without major disassembly Parts Cost: $15–$35 Professional Repair Cost: $100–$180

2. Heater Element Burn-Out (30% of cases)

The tubular heater element can burn open from age or from operating with low water levels (element exposed to air instead of water overheats and burns out). Test continuity with a multimeter — the element should show 10-30 ohms resistance. Infinite = burned open.

Samsung-specific: Samsung's heater elements are typically 1800-2000 watts. They connect via spade terminals or a plug connector. The element is accessed from inside the tub (rear access) or from beneath (depending on model).

DIY Difficulty: Moderate Parts Cost: $40–$100 Professional Repair Cost: $150–$300

3. Control Board Heater Relay Failure (20% of cases)

The heater draws significant current (15-16 amps at 120V). The relay on the control board that switches this current can weld open from surge damage or simply wear out from high-current switching cycles.

DIY Difficulty: Moderate to Hard Parts Cost: $120–$350 Professional Repair Cost: $250–$550

4. Wiring/Connection Fault (15% of cases)

The high-current connections to the heater element can develop resistance from corrosion or loose terminals. This increased resistance reduces heater power output, making it take longer to reach temperature — eventually triggering HE when the target is not reached within the board's timeout period.

Check: Inspect the wire connectors at the heater element terminals for discoloration, melting, or oxidation. Tug-test each connector — they should not pull off without pressing the release tab.

DIY Difficulty: Moderate Parts Cost: $10–$30 (connector replacement) Professional Repair Cost: $120–$200

Samsung's Self Clean+ and Temperature

Samsung's Self Clean+ cycle (available on all Samsung washers) runs at approximately 60C (140F) using your home's hot water supply or the internal heater (if equipped). If Self Clean+ does not feel hot, the heating system or hot supply has an issue. Run Self Clean+ as a diagnostic — if your hot water supply is working but Self Clean+ still produces lukewarm water on a heater-equipped model, the internal heater system has failed.

FAQ

Q: My Samsung washer water is never hot — does it have a heater?

Check your model features: if you have Steam Wash, Sanitize, or AllergyCare cycle buttons, your model has an internal heater. If not, your machine relies on your home's hot water supply. Most US-market Samsung washers do NOT have internal heaters.

Q: What does the HE error code mean on my Samsung washer?

HE indicates the internal heating system failed to raise water temperature within the expected time. The most common cause is a failed thermistor (temperature sensor) giving false readings, followed by a burned-out heating element. Models without internal heaters should never display HE — if yours does, the control board may have a firmware issue.

Q: Can I still use my Samsung washer if the heater doesn't work?

Yes — you can wash normally on cold or using your home's hot water supply. The internal heater is only needed for Steam, Sanitize, and high-temperature cycles. Standard Hot/Warm/Cold cycles use your home's water heater, not the internal element.

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Heating issues on Samsung washers are often simple sensor fixes. Our technicians diagnose thermistor and heater faults with same-day parts. Schedule a repair →