Most Likely Cause#
A Samsung washer that delivers no hot or no cold water usually has a burned-out solenoid coil in the water inlet valve for the missing side. The inlet valve carries a separate coil and a separate supply hose for hot and cold, so when one temperature disappears, the fault almost always sits on that one side. Close behind are a supply tap turned off at the wall, sediment blocking the inlet screen on that hose, hoses connected backwards, and a control-board relay that fails to energize the coil.
One thing to rule out before calling it a fault: Samsung's EcoBubble and cold-wash cycles are designed to clean in cold or barely-warm water, so a load that seems to "never get hot" may simply be a cold cycle working as intended. Confirm you have selected a hot or warm cycle before diagnosing a missing hot supply.
Samsung's Temperature Control and EcoBubble#
Your cycle and temperature choice tells the board which inlet-valve coil to energize — hot, cold, or both. Many Samsung models also use EcoBubble, which whips detergent into a foam so it dissolves and cleans effectively in cold water; that means a cold-feeling wash is often normal, not a heating failure. Once you have confirmed the cycle actually calls for the missing temperature, the fault isolates cleanly to that side's coil, hose, or screen.
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What Usually Causes It#
The table ranks the causes from most to least common on Samsung washers.
| Cause | Why one temperature is missing | How common | First fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inlet valve solenoid coil burnout | The coil for that side won't open the valve | Most common | Test the coil for that temperature; replace the valve |
| Supply tap closed | The wall tap for that line is off or partly shut | Common | Fully open both hot and cold taps |
| Inlet screen blockage (one side) | Sediment chokes the screen on that hose | Occasional | Clean the inlet screen for the dead side |
| Reversed hose connections | Hot and cold hoses are swapped | Occasional | Confirm each hose is on its correct port |
| Control-board relay failure | The board won't energize that coil | Least common | Test or replace the control board |
Inlet Valve Coil and Taps#
Begin at the wall, since a partly-closed tap is a free fix: both the hot and cold supply taps must be fully open. If both are open and one temperature is still missing, the inlet-valve solenoid coil for that side is the prime suspect. The valve houses one coil per temperature; testing the coil for the dead side for continuity, and confirming it clicks and passes water when energized, isolates the burnout. A dead coil means the valve assembly is replaced.
Screens, Hoses, and the Board#
Each inlet hose has a fine mesh screen, and one clogged with grit throttles that temperature to nothing while the other flows normally — a quick clean often restores it. On a newly-installed or moved machine, verify the hot and cold hoses were not swapped at the ports, which makes the temperatures come out reversed. If the coils, screens, and hoses all check out but a temperature is still absent, the control-board relay that drives that coil may have failed, which is the least common but priciest cause.
Quick Diagnostic Sequence#
- Confirm the selected cycle actually calls for the missing temperature (not an EcoBubble cold wash).
- Open both wall supply taps fully.
- Clean the inlet screen on the dead side's hose.
- Test the inlet-valve coil for the missing temperature.
- Verify the hoses are on the correct ports; if all else is good, test the board relay.
Safety: unplug the washer and close both taps before removing a hose or the inlet valve. The valve carries line voltage to its coils and water at its ports, so isolate both before working on it.
Safety First — Know the Risks
High-voltage components and pressurized water lines create flood and shock risk. A single loose fitting can cause thousands in water damage. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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Repair or Replace#
An opened tap or a cleaned screen costs nothing, and the inlet valve is an inexpensive, common part, so this repair is almost always worth doing. The only costly verdict is a control-board fault, which is uncommon for a single missing temperature, and on an older Samsung washer that is the point to weigh a repair against replacement. If the simple checks do not restore both temperatures, you can book a diagnostic visit to have the valve and board tested.
Senior Appliance Repair Technician · 15 years experience
EPA-certified technician with 15 years of experience specializing in refrigerator and cooling system repairs.
