Samsung Washer HE Error: Heater System Malfunction

The HE code on Samsung washers indicates a problem with the internal water heater or the temperature monitoring circuit. Samsung WF front-load models have a built-in heater element that warms wash water independently of your home's hot water supply. The HE code fires when the control board detects: water temperature not rising as expected when the heater is commanded on, water temperature rising too quickly (potential dry-fire condition), or the heater circuit drawing abnormal current.

Sub-variants include HE1 (heater not heating — temperature did not rise within expected time), HE2 (heater overshoot — temperature exceeded target by more than 10°C), and HC (heater relay stuck closed — potential continuous heating condition).

Samsung's Heater Architecture

Samsung WF front-load washers use a tubular heating element mounted inside the outer tub at the bottom — fully submerged during operation:

• Part: DC47-00006A (heater element, WF45/WF50 series) — 2000W, 120V
• Location: Bottom of outer tub, accessed from rear panel
• Safety system: Two thermistors (one on the heater, one on the tub) plus a thermal fuse provide triple redundancy
• Control: The main PCB's relay switches the heater on/off based on the tub thermistor reading vs. the target temperature for the selected cycle

Important: Samsung WA top-load washers do NOT have a built-in heater — they rely entirely on the hot water supply for warm/hot cycles. If a WA model shows HE, the code refers to the water temperature sensor circuit (thermistor), not a heater element.

Diagnosing HE1: Heater Not Heating

The water temperature did not rise as expected after the heater was energized:

Step 1: Verify Hot Water Supply

Before suspecting the internal heater:

1. Run the kitchen hot water faucet until hot arrives. If it takes longer than 30 seconds, the water heater may be set too low or is too far from the washer.
2. Samsung's internal heater supplements the hot water supply — it is not designed to heat cold water from 40°F to 130°F alone. If the supply water is ice-cold, the heater may time out before reaching target temperature.

Step 2: Test the Heater Element

1. Unplug the washer. Remove the rear access panel.
2. Locate the heater terminals at the bottom of the tub — two large spade connectors.
3. Disconnect the wires and measure resistance across the heater terminals: should read 24-30 ohms for a 2000W/120V element.
   • Infinite resistance = open element (burned out)
   • Very low resistance (below 5 ohms) = shorted element
4. Test from each terminal to the heater body (ground test): should read infinite. Any continuity to the body = element is arcing to ground (trip hazard + GFCI may be tripping).

Step 3: Check the Thermistor

The tub thermistor tells the board what temperature the water is. If it reads incorrectly:

• Part: DC32-00006Z (tub thermistor, NTC type)
• Location: Inserted into the heater housing or a nearby port on the tub bottom
• Expected resistance: ~40kΩ at 77°F (25°C), ~10kΩ at 130°F (55°C)
• Test: Disconnect and measure at room temperature. If reading is infinite (open) or 0 (shorted), replace.

A failed thermistor that reads incorrectly can cause HE1 (board thinks water isn't heating because the sensor reports wrong temperature) or HE2 (sensor reports runaway temperature that doesn't match reality).

Step 4: Verify the Heater Relay

The main board supplies 120V to the heater through a relay. During a hot cycle's heating phase:

1. Measure voltage at the heater terminals (with wires connected, washer powered, hot cycle running)
2. Should read 120V AC when the board commands heating
3. No voltage with a good heater and thermistor = relay failure on the main board

Diagnosing HE2/HC: Overheating

HE2 or HC means the water temperature exceeded the target significantly:

Most dangerous scenario: The heater relay is stuck closed — the heater runs continuously regardless of temperature. This can boil the water and damage clothing, rubber gaskets, and the tub itself.

Immediate action: If you see HE2 or HC, unplug the washer immediately. Wait for the water to cool before opening the door.

Diagnosis:

1. After unplugging, touch the door glass carefully — if it's hot despite selecting a cold cycle, the heater ran when it shouldn't have.
2. The relay on the main board is likely welded closed. Inspect the board visually — a stuck relay sometimes shows burn marks on the PCB around the relay pins.
3. Replace the main control board if the relay is stuck: DC92-01021B (WF45/WF50).

Parts Summary

WA Top-Load: HE Means Thermistor Only

On Samsung WA models without an internal heater, HE indicates the water temperature sensor (thermistor) circuit is open or shorted. The board cannot determine water temperature.

Diagnosis: Access the thermistor (typically inside the outer tub, accessed from the top by removing the agitator/impeller or through an access panel). Test resistance — same NTC values as above.

Cost Comparison

Safety Warning

The HE2/HC overheating condition is a safety hazard:

• Do not operate the washer if HE2 or HC has appeared — the heater may run uncontrolled
• Do not open the door immediately after HE2 — water may be at scalding temperature
• A stuck heater relay requires main board replacement — do not attempt to unstick the relay manually
• If the heater element tests positive for ground leakage, a GFCI-protected outlet will trip. Do not defeat the GFCI — fix the heater.

When to Call a Technician

• HE2 or HC appeared — potential stuck relay requiring board replacement (safety-critical)
• The heater element tests open but you cannot access it from the rear (some models require partial tub disassembly)
• HE appears alongside other codes (tE, 1C) — suggests broader electrical system issue
• The washer is GFCI-tripping in addition to showing HE — ground fault in the heater requires careful isolation

Samsung Washer HE: Hot vs. Cold Water Confusion

Samsung front-load washers (WF series) are designed to heat water internally for specific cycles (Sanitize, Allergen). But they also receive hot water from the household supply. HE can indicate either:

• The internal heater element has failed (the washer cannot boost cold water to the cycle's target temperature)
• The hot water supply valve is closed or the supply line is connected to cold instead of hot

Before assuming the heater element failed, verify that your hot water hose is connected to the hot valve and delivers hot water. A simple mix-up during installation (hot connected to cold port) causes HE on every cycle that expects heated water.

HE Only on Sanitize Cycles

If HE appears only during Sanitize (which requires 150F+ final rinse) but not during Normal or Heavy cycles, the heater is likely partially functional — it can reach the lower temperatures required for normal cycles but cannot achieve the higher Sanitize target. This partial failure typically means the heater element has increased resistance from internal degradation — it heats more slowly and cannot reach 150F within the board's timeout.

Samsung Washer Heater Element Location

The heater element on Samsung WF front-load washers is integrated into the outer tub assembly near the bottom. Accessing it requires removing the front panel and the lower splash shield. The element has two electrical terminals and is sealed into the tub with a rubber grommet and compression nut. When replacing, ensure the grommet seals properly — a poorly seated grommet will leak and potentially trigger additional codes (1C or LC).

Samsung washer HE code with cold water on hot cycles? Our technicians test heater elements, thermistors, and board relays on-site. Book diagnosis →

Preventing HE From Recurring

After successfully resolving error HE, these maintenance practices minimize recurrence:

Monthly:

• Run a hot maintenance wash (empty, hottest setting, maintenance cleaner or vinegar)
• Clean door gasket/seal fold (mold accumulates in the rubber crease)
• Clean drain pump filter (lower front access panel)
• Leave door ajar after use for ventilation

Quarterly:

• Check water supply hose connections for seepage
• Inspect inlet screen filters for mineral buildup
• Verify drain standpipe connection (no air gap blockage)

Annually:

• Replace rubber fill hoses (every 5 years, or immediately if bulging/stiff)
• Inspect leveling (re-check all four feet, front adjustable feet should support firmly)
• Clean detergent dispenser housing (remove drawer, clean cavity with old toothbrush)