The short answer
A Lycan that will not start is nearly always waiting on something: a latch it cannot confirm, a valve that is closed, or a lock or delay that has been set. The ranking below is ordered for this brand and the top checks are free.
What you are seeing
- It beeps or flashes when you press start — The machine is declining and saying so, which usually means the door or a lock rather than a failure.
- It hums briefly and stops without filling — It is trying to fill and getting nothing, so the supply valve or the inlet is the place to look.
- NEAR MISS — it starts and then stops part way through — That is a cycle fault rather than a start fault, and the drainage or cleaning pages usually explain it.
What goes wrong here, in order
- Power and water at the connection — A dishwasher needs a live socket and an open supply valve. A switch on the wall plate turned off, a breaker tripped by something else on the circuit, a plug worked loose in a cramped cupboard, or a valve closed after a repair all produce this complaint. It heads the list here: this machine plugs into a socket and screws onto a tap, and both of those connections are disturbed every time it is used elsewhere. Lycan machines are small-capacity units used the way a full-size machine is used, and overloading a small machine produces a fault list of its own before any part has worn.
- Standing water the machine will not start on — Many machines check the sump before they fill. Water left from an aborted cycle, or a filter the machine cannot clear, produces a refusal to start that looks exactly like an electrical fault. Second here: it takes one look under the filter to eliminate.
- A lock, a delay or a control that has latched — Child lock, delay start and demonstration mode all leave a machine lit and inert. So does a control that has hung after an interrupted cycle. None of them gives an obvious sign, and all of them are cleared without tools. After those two: it is worth a glance before anything else is opened.
- The door latch — A dishwasher will not run until its latch tells the control the door is closed. A latch worn round, a strike out of alignment, or a door held a fraction open by a tall item in the upper rack leaves the machine lit and idle. Next after those: it explains fewer of these here but it costs nothing to check.
Check in this order, and why
- Check the socket, its switch and the supply valve in the next cupboard — Test the socket with something else, and look for a wall switch that controls it — the commonest single answer to a dead machine.
- Look for standing water above the filter — Water in the base means the machine is refusing because it cannot drain, and the drainage page is the one to follow.
- Look for a lock symbol or a delay indicator, then power the machine down for a minute — A machine that starts normally after a minute at the breaker had latched rather than failed.
Steps you can take safely
- Check the breaker, the switched socket and the supply valve — Open the adjacent cupboard and look rather than reaching blind. Check the plug is fully home.
Tools: torchAbout 15 min
- Bail out the base and clean the filter — A cup and a sponge, then the filter out and rinsed. Lock it back in place before trying again.
Tools: cup, spongeAbout 25 min
- Clear any lock or delay and reset at the breaker — Hold the button marked for the lock for several seconds, switch off at the breaker for a minute, then select the shortest programme.
About 10 min
- STOP before removing the door panel or the kickplate — Live terminals sit immediately behind both. Naming the likely cause is the useful end of an owner check.
The part that is not optional
Safety
Switch the dishwasher off at its breaker or unplug it before any panel comes off — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Shut the supply valve before touching a fitting, and mind the heating element in the base of the tub: it stays hot long after a cycle ends.
When this becomes a service call
Call when the socket is live, the valve is open, the latch closes firmly and no lock or delay is set — at that point the fault is a switch, a valve or a board. Call sooner if the machine trips the breaker whenever power is restored.
Related pages on this appliance
The limits of this page
Generalized information. This page addresses the appliance class; where a more specific Lycan page exists beneath it, that is the page for your machine. Deliberately not here: service-manual procedures, component locations and specifications that change family to family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
