Kenmore Washer Thermostat Replacement Guide

As always with Kenmore, the badge hides the builder, and the builder decides the part. Decode the first three digits of the model number: 110 is Whirlpool (older units may use a mechanical temperature switch behind the selector knob; newer VMW models use an electronic thermistor), 796 is LG (Kenmore Elite, sometimes with an internal heater the thermistor also controls), and 417 is Frigidaire/Electrolux with its own sensor parts.

Mechanical switch vs. electronic thermistor#

• Older 110 rotary-knob models route power directly to the hot and cold inlet solenoids through a mechanical temperature switch. When it fails, every wash comes out the same temperature no matter the dial. Test it by checking continuity between terminal pairs as you rotate through the settings.
• Newer 110 VMW and 796 models read an NTC thermistor at the board and drive the inlet valves electronically. A failed thermistor makes the board fall back to one temperature or post a fault code.

Symptoms#

• Water temperature never matches the selected setting — the thermistor is reporting the wrong value
• Every cycle uses the same temperature — the board cannot read the sensor and defaults, or the mechanical switch contacts corroded
• A temperature-circuit fault code — F2 E1 on Whirlpool platforms, or tE on LG
• Long fill times as the board keeps chasing a temperature the sensor reports as too low
• On 796 models with a heater, the element runs too long because the thermistor reads low

Test the thermistor#

Set a multimeter to ohms. At about 70°F room temperature a washer thermistor should read roughly 40,000 to 55,000 ohms; dip the tip in warm water and the resistance should fall, reaching about 10,000 ohms near 120°F. Infinite, zero, or no change with temperature means it failed. For a mechanical switch, confirm each setting produces its own pattern of open and closed contacts.

Replace it#

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Reach the outer tub — remove the rear panel on a front-loader, or tilt/remove the cabinet on a top-loader.
3. Find the thermistor, a small probe in the tub wall on a two-wire harness.
4. Unplug the harness, release the probe from its clip, and seat the new one so its tip meets the water path.
5. Reconnect, reassemble, and run a warm wash to confirm correct mixing.

Tools: Phillips #2, a multimeter, and a 1/4-inch nut driver.

Check the easy things first#

Before you condemn a sensor, prove the hot supply is actually hot — run the nearest faucet until it warms up, since cold water sitting in the pipes can fill the machine first, especially in winter. Confirm the hoses are on the right ports, because swapped hot and cold hoses mimic a sensor fault exactly. Then decode and cross-reference: order the underlying Whirlpool or LG part number instead of the Kenmore label and it typically costs 30–40% less. One safety note — for anything involving a 240V circuit, gas, or a sealed system, hand it to a professional; the savings never justify the risk.

Confirm the fault before you buy#

Random part-swapping wastes money, so pull the actual fault codes in diagnostic mode before ordering — a specific temperature-circuit code points straight at the thermistor rather than leaving you guessing. Rule out the impostors too: a tripped breaker or a loose plug can make a healthy sensor look dead, and a corroded connector at the probe produces the exact symptoms of a failed sensor, so unplug and reseat each connector to clean the contacts first. One ownership note — if your Kenmore is still on a Sears protection plan, doing the repair yourself can void the remaining coverage, so schedule through Sears while the plan is active and save DIY for after it expires.