Kenmore Washer Not Heating Water — Troubleshooting Guide
The most important thing to understand about Kenmore washer heating: the vast majority of Kenmore washers (all 110-series Whirlpool-built and most 417-series Electrolux-built) do NOT have internal water heaters. They receive hot water from your household water heater through the hot-water fill hose. If your Kenmore washer is not producing hot water, the problem is almost certainly in the water supply path, not inside the washer.
Which Kenmore Washers Have Internal Heaters?
- 110-series (Whirlpool): No internal heater. Temperature depends entirely on household hot water supply.
- 796-series (LG) select models: Some have an internal heater for Allergen/Sanitize/Steam cycles that boosts temperature to 150°F+. This heater does NOT operate on normal Hot/Warm/Cold cycles.
- 417-series (Electrolux) select models: Some have an internal heater for Sanitize cycle only.
If your Kenmore washer is not heating on normal cycles, the cause is water-supply-side. If only the Sanitize/Allergen cycle is not heating on a 796 or 417-series, the internal heater or its control circuit has failed.
Do You Have the Right Tools?
Bearing puller set ($120), drum spider wrench ($85), multimeter ($85), and diagnostic software. Our technician arrives with $15K+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
Most Common Causes — Normal Cycle Not Heating
1. Hot Water Inlet Valve Solenoid Failed (30% of cases)
The hot-side solenoid in the inlet valve has an open winding and cannot open. The cold solenoid works fine, so the washer fills with cold water on every cycle regardless of temperature setting. Test: feel the water entering the tub early in a "hot" cycle. If cold = solenoid dead.
Parts Cost: $25–$60 (complete valve) Professional Repair Cost: $120–$220
2. Hot Water Supply Valve Closed (20% of cases)
The shut-off valve behind the washer for the hot water line is closed or restricted. Verify it is fully open. Old gate valves can seize partially closed from mineral buildup.
3. Clogged Hot-Side Inlet Screen (20% of cases)
The inlet screen on the hot-water port is blocked with mineral scale. Hot water carries more dissolved minerals and deposits them faster. Remove the hot-water fill hose and inspect the screen inside the valve port.
4. Water Heater Problem (15% of cases)
Your household water heater is not producing hot water. Test by running the hot water at the laundry room sink (or nearest hot water faucet). If the water heater is out, no appliance in the house will get hot water.
5. Fill Hoses Reversed (8% of cases)
During installation, the hot and cold fill hoses were connected to the wrong valve ports. The washer calls for hot water, opens the hot solenoid, but gets cold water from the mis-connected hose. Check that the hot hose (usually red-marked) connects to the hot supply valve AND the hot inlet on the washer.
6. Long Hot Water Pipe Run (7% of cases)
In some Sacramento homes, the water heater is far from the laundry room. The hot water pipe holds cold stagnant water between uses. The washer's fill time may not be long enough to purge the cold water from the pipe before the tub fills. Running the hot water at the laundry sink for 30 seconds before starting the washer helps.
Internal Heater Issues (796/417 Sanitize Cycle Only)
If your Kenmore 796 or 417-series washer has a Sanitize/Allergen cycle that no longer reaches high temperatures:
Heater Element Failed
The internal heating element (a resistive coil submerged in the recirculation path) can burn out. Test with a multimeter: disconnect one lead and check continuity across the element terminals. Open = burned out.
Parts Cost: $40–$80 Professional Repair Cost: $160–$300
Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Failed
The thermistor reports water temperature to the control board. If it reports incorrect (too high) temperature, the board never activates the heater. Test resistance: should be approximately 50,000 ohms at room temperature (NTC type). Significantly different = replace.
Parts Cost: $15–$30 Professional Repair Cost: $100–$180
Same-Day Appliance Repair
Fixed or It's Free
$89 → $0 Service Call & Diagnosis — offer ends May 25
Safety First — Know the Risks
High-voltage components and pressurized water lines create flood and shock risk. A single loose fitting can cause thousands in water damage. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
Diagnostic Steps
- Run hot water at laundry room sink — does it get hot? If not, water heater issue.
- Check supply valve and fill hose orientation — hot hose to hot port?
- Feel water entering washer on a Hot cycle within first 30 seconds of fill — hot or cold?
- If cold during Hot cycle: Inlet valve hot-side solenoid has failed. Replace valve.
- If only Sanitize/Steam cycle is not extra-hot (796/417 only): Internal heater or thermistor.
FAQ
Q: Does my Kenmore 110-series washer have a heater?
No. Kenmore 110-series washers (Whirlpool-built) have no internal water heating element. They use hot water from your household water heater. If the water is not hot, the problem is in the supply path (valve, solenoid, hose) or the water heater itself.
Q: Why does my Kenmore washer wash in lukewarm water when I select Hot?
Either: (1) the hot-side inlet screen is partially clogged, restricting hot water flow while cold flows freely, creating a lukewarm mix; or (2) your water heater temperature is set too low (should be 120°F for effective laundry washing).
Kenmore washer water not hot enough? We diagnose inlet valve and supply issues on all platforms. Book service →


