How to Troubleshoot a Frigidaire Oven Bake Element (316075103) That Won't Heat
The Frigidaire part 316075103 is a bake element (lower heating element) used across many Frigidaire 30-inch electric range models. When this element fails to heat, the oven will not reach temperature in standard bake mode — though broil mode (which uses the separate upper element) may still work perfectly. This asymmetric failure (bake dead, broil works) is the classic signature of a bake element circuit problem.
This troubleshooting guide systematically diagnoses the bake element circuit from the element itself through the wiring, temperature sensor, control board relay, and safety interlocks. On Frigidaire ranges with Even Baking Technology, the bake element is the primary heat source and its failure completely disables standard oven cooking. Understanding how the control board manages the element through the temperature sensor feedback loop is key to efficient diagnosis.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, multimeter, flashlight, 1/4" nut driver (rear panel access)
- Parts needed: Depends on diagnosis (bake element 316075103 ~$30-$50, temperature sensor $20-$40, control board $100-$250)
- Time required: 30-60 minutes for systematic diagnosis
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Safety warning: Turn off the 240V circuit breaker. Allow the oven to cool completely if recently used. The bake element circuit carries 240V when the oven is operating. During live-voltage testing steps (if needed), exercise extreme caution — 240V contact can cause severe burns or cardiac arrest.
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Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Confirm Bake Mode Failure
Set the oven to BAKE at 350F. After 15 minutes, open the door and look at the bake element (bottom of the oven cavity). It should glow dull red when actively heating. If no glow is visible at any point during the preheat cycle, the bake element circuit has failed. Verify that BROIL mode works (the upper element should glow when set to BROIL). If broil works but bake does not, the problem is isolated to the bake circuit.
If NEITHER bake nor broil works: the problem is likely the temperature sensor (control board refuses to activate either element if sensor reads abnormal), the main control board, or a complete power issue (breaker tripped, blown thermal fuse).
Step 2: Visual Inspection of the Bake Element
With the oven OFF and cool, remove the oven racks for clear visibility. Inspect the bake element visually:
- Look for visible breaks, holes, cracks, or blistering in the metal sheath
- Check for burn-through points (the element may have a small hole where it failed)
- Look for areas where the element has expanded/bulged (internal short developing)
- Check the point where the element terminals exit the rear wall for burn marks or damage
Visible damage confirms element failure without further testing needed.
Step 3: Test the Element with Multimeter
Turn off the breaker. Remove the 2 mounting screws holding the element to the rear oven wall. Pull the element forward to expose the wire connectors. Disconnect both spade connectors from the element terminals.
Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Test across both element terminals:
- Expected for 316075103: 20-40 ohms (this is a 2500-3000W element at 240V)
- Infinite/OL reading: Element is open — burned through internally. Replace the element.
- Very low (<5 ohms): Element is shorted. Replace the element.
- Within expected range: Element is electrically good. The problem is upstream.
Step 4: Test for Voltage at the Element Connectors
If the element tested good (Step 3 shows correct resistance), the problem is that the control board is not sending 240V to the element. This can be tested:
With the element disconnected, restore power at the breaker. Set the oven to BAKE 350F. CAREFULLY measure AC voltage at the two supply wires that were connected to the element (use insulated probes, stand on dry surface, do not touch anything metal with your other hand):
- 240V present: The circuit is delivering power, but the element did not heat — the element has an intermittent open that only manifests under heat (thermal failure). Replace the element.
- 120V present (not 240V): One leg of the circuit is broken. Check the circuit breaker (both poles must be ON — a half-tripped breaker delivers 120V instead of 240V).
- 0V present: The control board is not activating the bake relay. Continue to Step 5.
If you are not comfortable with live voltage testing, skip this step and proceed with the remaining component tests with power OFF.
Step 5: Test the Temperature Sensor
The control board uses the temperature sensor (RTD probe) to determine when to activate the bake element. If the sensor reads abnormally (open or shorted), the board may refuse to energize the bake relay as a safety measure, often displaying an error code (F30, F31, F10).
Turn off the breaker. Locate the sensor (thin metal rod, upper rear wall of the oven cavity). Disconnect its 2-wire connector. Test resistance:
- At room temperature (70F): Should read 1080-1100 ohms
- Infinite: Sensor is open (triggers F30) — the board will not activate elements
- Zero/very low: Sensor is shorted (triggers F31) — the board may or may not activate elements
- Within range but no error code displayed: Sensor is probably fine; issue is the control board relay itself
Step 6: Check the Oven Door Latch and Safety Circuit
Frigidaire ovens with self-clean have a door latch motor and switch assembly. If the oven thinks the door is in the locked position (or the lock switch circuit is open), it may prevent bake element activation as a safety interlock. Check for:
- Door lock indicator on the display (the LOCK icon should NOT be illuminated during normal baking)
- Test the door lock switch with the door fully open (should show proper state to the board)
- On older models, a stuck door latch motor can trigger the safety lockout
Step 7: Assess the Control Board
If the element, sensor, wiring, and interlocks all test good, the control board's bake relay has likely failed. The relay is an internal component on the board that cannot be individually replaced — the entire board must be swapped. Signs that point to a board relay failure:
- Bake does not work, but broil does (different relays for each)
- No error codes displayed (the board's logic side works, but the power-switching relay is dead)
- You measured 0V at the element wires when the oven was set to BAKE (board is not switching)
Frigidaire Oven Control Flow Diagram
User sets BAKE 350F
→ Control board activates bake relay
→ 240V flows through relay to bake element
→ Element heats cavity
→ Temperature sensor reports rising temp
→ Board cycles relay off when sensor reads 350F
→ Relay reactivates when temp drops below ~340F
A failure at any point in this chain prevents heating. The systematic diagnosis above checks each link.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Appliances involve high voltage (120-240V), pressurized water, gas lines, and chemical refrigerants. Over 400 DIY repair injuries are reported yearly. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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Common Misdiagnoses
| Incorrect Assumption | Reality |
|---|---|
| "Element looks fine so it must be good" | Elements can have internal opens invisible externally. Always test with multimeter |
| "No error code means sensor is fine" | Some sensor drift values don't trigger codes but cause abnormal behavior |
| "I replaced the element but it still doesn't heat" | The element was not the problem — the control board relay was dead all along |
| "Half the element glows" | This is NOT a dual-ring. A standard element with half-glow has one leg of 240V missing. Check breaker (both poles) |
Frigidaire Bake Element Specifications (316075103)
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Part number | 316075103 (also cross-references to 316075104) |
| Voltage | 240V AC |
| Wattage | 2500-3000W (model dependent) |
| Resistance | 20-40 ohms |
| Mounting | 2 rear-wall screws |
| Connection | 2 spade terminals |
| Compatible brands | Frigidaire, Electrolux (same part) |
The Real Cost of DIY
Average DIY attempt: $150-400 in tools you may use once, plus the risk of further damage. Our diagnostic visit costs $0 — we find the problem and give you an honest quote.
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When to Call a Professional
Contact a professional if:
- You have diagnosed a failed control board and are not comfortable with electronics replacement (involves disconnecting multiple wire harnesses and ribbon cables)
- The oven is gas-powered with an electric igniter system (different diagnosis path involving the gas safety valve and hot-surface igniter)
- Live voltage testing is needed but you are not confident in safe 240V measurement technique
- Error codes persist after replacing both the element and sensor (complex board-level diagnosis)
- The oven overheats (F10 code with element stuck ON) — this is a safety emergency indicating a welded relay contact on the board
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Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $30-$250 (element vs board) | Same |
| Labor | $0 | $150-$300 |
| Time | 30-60min | 45-60min |
| Risk | Moderate (240V present when testing) | Warranty included |
Don't Void Your Warranty
Opening your appliance yourself may void the manufacturer warranty. Our repair comes with a 90-day guarantee, and we document everything for warranty compliance.
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FAQ
Q: My Frigidaire oven broils but won't bake — what is wrong? A: The broil element (top) and bake element (bottom) have separate circuits. Broil working proves the oven has power and the control board logic functions. The bake-specific failure is either: the bake element itself (most common), the bake relay on the control board (second most common), or a wiring issue in the bake circuit only.
Q: How do I know if my Frigidaire 316075103 bake element is bad? A: Test with a multimeter: disconnect the element and measure resistance across its terminals. Should read 20-40 ohms. Infinite = burned through (replace). Also check visually for holes, cracks, or blistering in the metal sheath.
Q: Can a bad temperature sensor prevent the bake element from working? A: Yes. If the sensor reads open (infinite resistance) or shorted (zero resistance), the control board treats this as a safety fault and will not activate the bake relay. It typically displays F30 or F31 error code. Replace the sensor to restore normal operation.
Q: Is part 316075103 the same as 316075104? A: These are sequential part numbers that Frigidaire uses for superseded versions. The 316075104 replaced the 316075103 in production. They are physically and electrically identical and fully interchangeable.
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