How to Replace Samsung Washer Carbon Brushes

First, confirm you even have brushes#

Samsung washers built before about 2014 use a belt-driven brushed motor whose two carbon blocks ride on the commutator and slowly wear down. Once they drop below their wear limit, roughly 15 mm, contact becomes intermittent and the motor loses torque, first as a weak spin and finally as no spin at all. Machines from 2014 onward use a brushless direct-drive motor with nothing to replace, so if yours is newer and will not turn, the fault is electrical rather than brush wear. Check the model year on the rating plate before you order anything.

Before you start#

Safety warning: Disconnect power. Carbon dust is conductive — avoid getting it on circuit boards or into electrical connections.

Step-by-step#

1 - Reach the motor. Unplug the washer and remove the rear panel, held by 8 to 12 Phillips screws around the edge. On these older Samsung machines the cylindrical motor sits low at the back, driven off the drum by a belt and pulley.

2 - Find the brushes. Two brush holders sit on opposite sides of the motor body, about 180 degrees apart. Each holder is a small plastic housing with the carbon block and a spring that presses it against the commutator, retained by either a single Phillips screw or a push clip.

3 - Remove the old brushes. Back out the screw or release the clip and pull each holder straight out; the carbon and spring come as a unit. Measure the carbon: below roughly 15 mm it is worn and the replacement is justified. Even wear on both means a healthy motor, but if one is far shorter than the other, suspect commutator damage.

4 - Inspect the commutator. With the brushes out, look at the segmented copper ring where they ride. It should read smooth and coppery with light darkening. Deep grooves, heavy blackening, burned spots, or lifted segments mean the motor itself needs replacing, because fresh brushes on a bad commutator wear out fast.

5 - Fit the new brushes. The curved face of each carbon must match the curve of the commutator; most replacements are pre-shaped, but check the orientation. Seat the spring and carbon in the holder, compress it, slide the assembly home so the carbon touches the commutator, and secure the screw or clip. Repeat on the opposite side.

6 - Break them in. New brushes must conform to the commutator, so run 4 to 6 empty normal cycles with no laundry. A little sparking visible through the motor vents is normal during this period, and performance improves as the faces bed in. Keep loads light until they have seated, since the motor draws extra current until then.

7 - Verify. After the break-in cycles, run a full loaded cycle and confirm the motor accelerates smoothly, the spin reaches full speed without hesitation, and there is no burning smell before you refit the rear panel.

Troubleshooting after the swap#

• Still no spin: the brushes are not making contact. Check that the springs are compressed and the motor terminal connections are tight.
• Sparking past break-in: the commutator is dirty or damaged. Clean it with fine sandpaper while turning the motor by hand; deep grooves mean a new motor.
• Burning smell: a brush is hung up in its holder. Remove it, confirm it slides freely, and refit.
• Weak at high speed: the brush grade is wrong. Use genuine Samsung brushes for correct commutation.

Need professional help?#

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