How to Replace a KitchenAid Washer Splutch Pulley

What the splutch actually does#

The name is "spin" and "clutch" run together, and that describes it. The cam has two positions. In agitate it engages an agitate dog, coupling the motor to a slow back-and-forth oscillation. In spin it drops the agitate dog and engages a spin dog, coupling the motor to fast one-directional rotation.

The shift actuator (W10913953) is the small electric motor that rotates that cam between the two. This is the distinction that saves you buying the wrong part: if you can hear the actuator whirring during the agitate-to-spin transition but the machine does not shift, the cam is worn. If you hear nothing at all at that moment, the actuator is the failure — and actuator failure is the more common of the two.

Getting underneath#

Unplug the machine and tilt it back or lay it on its right side, secured so it cannot shift while you work. The splutch is at the centre of the base, between the motor and the tub drive pulley, connected to the motor by the drive belt and to the transmission by a direct mechanical coupling.

You need a 13mm socket on a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 5/16-inch socket and a flat-blade screwdriver.

Slip the drive belt off the splutch pulley and the motor pulley to release tension. Inspect it while it is off — cracked, glazed or stretched means replace it now rather than after reassembly.

Taking the old one off#

The shift actuator's metal arm sits in a slot on the splutch cam. Note where the arm sits, then disengage it. Two 5/16-inch screws take the actuator off entirely if you want clearer access, and on some models that is the easier route.

The splutch itself is held on the transmission shaft by a retaining ring or a 13mm nut, depending on model year. Take that hardware off and slide the assembly off the shaft. Keep every washer, spring and spacer in the order it came off — stacking order is what the new kit's instructions will assume.

Fitting the kit#

Build the new assembly onto the shaft in the order the kit specifies. The critical part is cam orientation relative to the shift actuator linkage slot: get that wrong and the machine will agitate weakly or not shift at all. Fit the retaining hardware and tighten it properly.

Reattach the actuator linkage to the new cam, lining the arm up with the cam slot. Refit the drive belt around both pulleys. Stand the machine up, plug it in, and test agitation and spin separately.

If it is still wrong#

• Weak agitation after the swap — the cam went on in the wrong orientation. The agitate dog has to engage with the actuator at rest
• Still no spin — check the actuator linkage genuinely engages the cam slot, then test the actuator itself, which is the more likely failure of the two
• Grinding continues — look at the transmission input shaft for wear. A worn shaft gives the splutch nothing to grip

One thing worth knowing about the commercial-grade motor option: it handles higher torque, and that higher starting torque accelerates cam wear once the splutch develops any play. On heavy-use machines with that motor, expect a slightly shorter splutch life than the usual eight to twelve years.

A worn or damaged transmission shaft, several drive-train components failed at once, or simply not wanting to work under a belt and pulley system under tension are all good reasons to book a repair instead.