How to Replace the Splutch Pulley and Cam Kit (W10721967) on a KitchenAid Washer
The splutch (a portmanteau of "spin" and "clutch") is a cam mechanism on KitchenAid VMW top-load washers that switches the transmission between agitate and spin modes. Part number W10721967 includes the complete splutch cam, pulley, and associated hardware. When the splutch wears, symptoms include weak or no agitation, failure to spin, or grinding/clicking noises during cycle transitions.
This is the same splutch kit used on equivalent Whirlpool VMW models — identical part, identical installation. The splutch works in conjunction with the shift actuator (W10913953) — the actuator drives the cam, and the cam engages the spin dog or agitate dog depending on position.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, 5/16-inch socket, flat-blade screwdriver
- Parts needed: Splutch pulley and cam kit W10721967 (~$25-45)
- Time required: 40-60 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Safety warning: Unplug the washing machine. This repair requires working underneath the machine — secure it safely before accessing.
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Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Access the Splutch Area
Unplug the machine. Tilt it back or lay it on its right side to access the bottom. The splutch assembly is located at the center of the machine base, between the motor and the tub drive pulley. It connects to the motor via the drive belt and to the transmission via a direct mechanical coupling.
Step 2: Remove the Drive Belt
Slip the belt off the splutch pulley and the motor pulley. This releases the tension and allows access to the splutch assembly. Set the belt aside and inspect it for wear — replace if cracked, glazed, or stretched.
Step 3: Disconnect the Shift Actuator Linkage
The shift actuator's metal arm connects to the splutch cam. Note the arm position, then disengage it from the cam slot. On some models, you may need to remove the actuator entirely (two 5/16-inch screws) for better access to the splutch.
Step 4: Remove the Old Splutch Assembly
The splutch is secured to the transmission shaft by a retaining ring or nut. Remove the retaining hardware (13mm nut or snap ring depending on model year). Slide the old splutch assembly off the shaft. Keep track of all washers, springs, and spacers in the correct order.
Step 5: Install the New Splutch Kit
Follow the kit instructions for the correct stacking order of components on the shaft. The cam must be oriented correctly relative to the shift actuator linkage slot. Install the retaining hardware and tighten securely.
Step 6: Reconnect and Reassemble
Reattach the shift actuator linkage to the new cam (align the arm with the cam slot). Reinstall the drive belt around the splutch pulley and motor pulley. Set the machine upright, plug in, and test both agitation and spin cycles.
Troubleshooting
- Agitates weakly after replacement: the cam may be installed in the wrong orientation. The agitate dog must engage when the actuator is in the rest position.
- Still no spin: verify the shift actuator linkage properly engages the cam slot. Also test the actuator itself — it may be the actual failure (more common than splutch failure).
- Grinding noise persists: check the transmission input shaft for wear. A worn shaft means the splutch cannot grip properly.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Appliances involve high voltage (120-240V), pressurized water, gas lines, and chemical refrigerants. Over 400 DIY repair injuries are reported yearly. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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When to Call a Professional
- If the transmission shaft is worn or damaged (requires transmission replacement)
- If multiple components in the drive train have failed simultaneously
- If you are not comfortable working with the belt/pulley system under tension
Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $25-45 | $25-45 |
| Labor | $0 | $150-$250 |
| Time | 0.75-1.0h | 0.5h |
| Risk | Medium | Warranty included |
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The Real Cost of DIY
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How the Splutch Mechanism Works
Understanding the splutch helps diagnose whether it or the shift actuator is the actual failure point:
The splutch is a cam assembly with two operating positions — agitate and spin. In agitate position, the cam engages an "agitate dog" that couples the motor output to a low-speed oscillating motion (back and forth). In spin position, the cam disengages the agitate dog and engages a "spin dog" that couples the motor to a high-speed one-directional rotation.
The shift actuator (W10913953) is the electric motor that physically rotates the cam between these two positions. When troubleshooting: if you hear the actuator motor running (brief whir during the agitate-to-spin transition) but the machine does not shift, the cam mechanism is worn. If you hear nothing during the transition, the actuator has failed.
On KitchenAid models with the commercial-grade motor option, the splutch handles higher torque loads than on standard motors. The commercial motor's higher starting torque can accelerate cam wear if the splutch mechanism develops play — resulting in slightly shorter splutch lifespan on heavy-use commercial-grade motor installations.
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FAQ
Q: What is a splutch and why is it called that? A: The name combines "spin" and "clutch" — it is a cam mechanism that clutches between spin mode and agitate mode on VMW top-load washers.
Q: Should I replace the shift actuator at the same time? A: Not necessarily. If the actuator was verified to be working (you can hear it engage), only the splutch needs replacement. But if both are showing wear, replacing them together saves labor.
Q: Is the W10721967 kit the same for KitchenAid and Whirlpool? A: Yes, identical part for all VMW top-load models from both brands.
Q: How long does the splutch last? A: 8-12 years typically. Heavy, frequent loads accelerate cam wear.
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