KitchenAid Washer: Replacing Water Inlet Valve

Bottom line: A KitchenAid washer that will not fill, fills with only hot or only cold, fills slowly (often flagging F8 E1), or trickles when it is off usually has a failed dual inlet valve. Replacing it is an intermediate 30-45 minute job — the two things to get right are shutting off the water and keeping hot and cold straight.

Unplug the machine AND turn off both hot and cold water supply valves before beginning. Have towels ready — residual water will drain from hoses.

Tools and parts#

Step by step#

1. Disconnect the water supply#

Turn both supply valves fully off and unthread the fill hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable wrench, pointing the ends into a bucket to catch the water still in them. Note which hose is hot (left) and which is cold (right) for reconnection.

2. Access the inlet valve#

On top-loaders, remove the control console (three rear screws), release the top panel clips with a putty knife, and lift the top; the valve is at the rear where the hoses enter. On front-loaders, pull the top panel (three rear screws, slide back, lift) to reach it mounted on the rear panel.

3. Disconnect the electrical connectors#

The valve has two solenoid coil connectors, one hot and one cold. Label or photograph which goes where, then pull each connector straight off its terminal with needle-nose pliers if needed. Do not pull by the wires.

4. Disconnect the internal hoses#

One or two outlet hoses run from the valve into the tub or dispenser. Squeeze each spring clamp with pliers, slide it back, and pull the hose off the barb with a towel ready, since water will drip from these.

5. Remove the valve#

Back out the two mounting screws — Torx T20 or Phillips depending on the model — holding the valve bracket to the rear panel, and lift the valve straight out.

6. Install the new valve#

Mount the new valve in the same position and orientation and refit the screws. Push the internal hoses onto the outlet barbs and slide the spring clamps back beyond the barb ridge for a proper seal, then reconnect the solenoid connectors to the correct hot and cold coils from your photo.

7. Reconnect and test#

Rethread the external fill hoses (hot to hot, cold to cold), open the supply valves slowly, and check every joint for leaks. Plug in and start a warm wash, confirming water enters from both lines and the valve shuts off cleanly at level. Feel each fill hose during the fill — both should run cool then warm as their line opens, which confirms both solenoids are energizing and you did not cross the hot and cold connectors.

If it still won't fill right#

• Fills slowly: the inlet hose screens are usually clogged with sediment — clean those before blaming the valve.
• Only hot or only cold: if you swapped the wire positions, unplug, swap the two solenoid connectors, and retest.
• Trickles when off: the new valve's internal seal is the fix; a worn seal lets water seep continuously.
• Leak at a hose after the swap: the spring clamp is sitting on the barb ridge rather than beyond it — slide it fully past the ridge so it grips the smooth hose.

When to call a pro#

A continuous trickle can flood a home, so if a new valve does not stop it, get a technician. See our washing machine repair cost guide or book a same-day repair.