How to Replace the Pressure Switch on a Frigidaire Washing Machine
The water level pressure switch on Frigidaire washing machines monitors tub water level and signals the control board to stop filling at the correct point. When this switch fails or its air tube becomes kinked or disconnected, the washer either overfills (E35 error — a flood hazard) or underfills/will not fill (E11 error). This small, inexpensive component ($15-35) is a common cause of fill-related errors that owners often misdiagnose as inlet valve failure.
The pressure switch works on a simple principle: a thin tube connects the bottom of the tub to the switch. As water rises in the tub, air pressure in the tube increases proportionally. The switch detects this pressure and triggers at calibrated points to signal water levels to the control board.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, needle-nose pliers (for hose clamps), multimeter (optional)
- Parts needed: Pressure switch (~$15-$35, model-specific)
- Time required: 20-30 minutes
- Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
- Safety warning: Unplug the washer. If E35 (overfill) triggered, also shut off water supply valves to prevent flooding during diagnosis.
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Multimeter ($85), vacuum pump ($250), diagnostic software, and specialized hand tools. Our technician arrives with $15K+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
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Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Access the Pressure Switch
Front-load EFLS: Remove the top panel (3 Phillips screws at rear, slide back, lift). The pressure switch is a small round device (approximately 2 inches diameter) typically mounted on the right side wall or near the control board enclosure. A thin plastic tube connects from the switch downward to the outer tub.
Top-load FFTW: Remove the control console (pop off end caps, remove Phillips screws, rotate console back). The pressure switch is mounted inside the console area or on the rear panel, again with a thin tube running down to the tub.
Step 2: Inspect the Pressure Hose First
Before replacing the switch, inspect the thin air tube (pressure hose) connecting the switch to the tub. This is the most common cause of pressure-related errors and costs nothing to fix:
- Check for kinks anywhere along the tube length
- Check for cracks or holes (tube should be airtight)
- Check both connection points — tube should be firmly on the switch port and the tub fitting
- Blow gently through the tube — air should flow freely with no resistance (indicating no clogs)
A disconnected or kinked tube is the #1 cause of E35 overfill on Frigidaire washers. The control board cannot detect water level without air pressure signal, so it either runs the inlet valve indefinitely or shuts down with an error.
Step 3: Test the Pressure Switch
Disconnect the pressure tube from the switch port. Set your multimeter to continuity or resistance. Connect probes to the switch's normally-open terminals (check service sheet for pinout).
Gently blow into the switch port (or use a small syringe). You should hear a distinct click, and the multimeter should show continuity change (open to closed or vice versa). There are typically two click points — one for normal water level, one for overfill protection.
If no clicks occur, or they happen at extremely light/heavy breath (miscalibrated), the switch is faulty. Replace it.
Step 4: Remove the Old Switch
Disconnect the wire harness from the switch (press locking tab, pull connector straight out). Remove the pressure tube (pull off the barb fitting or release the small clamp). Remove the mounting screw or release the snap clip holding the switch to the frame.
Step 5: Install the New Switch
Mount the new switch in the same position. Reconnect the pressure tube firmly onto the switch port — it must be airtight. Reconnect the wire harness (push until locking tab clicks).
Verify the tube routing: it should run smoothly without kinks from the switch to the tub connection point. Any kink or loop that could trap water will cause false readings.
Step 6: Test the Repair
Plug in the washer (with water supply on). Run a fill cycle. The washer should fill to the correct level and stop. Water should not overflow or underfill. Run a full cycle to verify correct water levels at each stage (fill, rinse).
For FFTW top-load models with MaxFill: test both normal fill and MaxFill modes. The pressure switch must respond to both level calibrations.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
- E35 persists after switch replacement: The inlet valve may be stuck open (solenoid not closing). Shut off water supply, replace the inlet valve if confirmed stuck. Also verify the new switch's tube connection is airtight.
- E11 persists after switch replacement: Verify water supply is open and flowing. Check fill hose screens for mineral blockage. The new switch may have a different calibration than expected — verify correct part number for your model.
- Water level varies between cycles: The pressure tube may have a small crack that leaks at higher pressures. Replace the tube along with the switch.
- Washer overfills on hot but not cold (or vice versa): This is an inlet valve issue (one solenoid stuck), not the pressure switch. Test each inlet solenoid independently.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Appliances involve high voltage (120-240V), pressurized water, gas lines, and chemical refrigerants. Over 400 DIY repair injuries are reported yearly. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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When to Call a Professional
- If E35 triggered and water overflowed — check for water damage to flooring and subfloor before running the machine again
- If the pressure switch tests good and the tube is clear, but fill errors persist — the control board's fill-control circuit may be faulty
- If you smell gas (stacked unit with gas dryer above) — water overflow may have affected gas connections
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Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $15-$35 | $15-$35 |
| Labor | $0 | $100-$180 |
| Time | 0.4h | 0.3h |
| Risk | Low | Warranty included |
The Real Cost of DIY
Average DIY attempt: $150-400 in tools you may use once, plus the risk of further damage. Our diagnostic visit costs $0 — we find the problem and give you an honest quote.
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FAQ
Q: What does the pressure switch do? A: It tells the control board how much water is in the tub via air pressure in a thin tube. Controls fill start/stop and overfill protection.
Q: What causes E35 overfill? A: Failed pressure switch, kinked/disconnected pressure hose (most common), or stuck-open inlet valve. Check the hose first.
Q: How do I test the switch? A: Blow gently into the port — listen for clicks. Test with multimeter for continuity change at each click point.
Q: Where is it located? A: Front-load: under top panel, right side. Top-load: behind control console or on rear panel. Small round device with a thin tube.
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