How to Replace the Drive Belt on a Frigidaire Washing Machine
The drive belt on Frigidaire front-load washers (EFLS series) connects the motor to the drum, transferring spin force through a multi-rib belt system. Unlike brands that use a direct-drive motor or a fixed idler pulley, Frigidaire employs a spring-loaded tensioner that automatically maintains belt pressure — this is a critical detail that affects both diagnosis and replacement procedure.
When the belt fails, the drum will not spin even though you can hear the motor running. When the belt is worn or the tensioner is weak, you will hear squealing on startup or notice the drum hesitating before reaching full speed. Both conditions are straightforward DIY repairs that take 20-30 minutes.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver (rear panel), flat-blade screwdriver (optional for belt routing)
- Parts needed: Drive belt 137315300 (
$15-$25), tensioner assembly ($20-$35, if needed) - Time required: 20-30 minutes
- Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
- Safety warning: Unplug the washer before removing the rear panel. The belt area involves no water risk, but the motor has sharp edges.
Do You Have the Right Tools?
Multimeter ($85), vacuum pump ($250), diagnostic software, and specialized hand tools. Our technician arrives with $15K+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Access the Belt System
Unplug the washer and pull it forward 12-18 inches from the wall. Remove the rear panel by removing all Phillips screws around its perimeter (typically 12-16 screws in 2-3 different lengths — note their positions for reassembly).
With the rear panel removed, you can see the drum (large circular surface), the belt wrapped around its outer circumference, the motor at the bottom center, and the spring-loaded tensioner between the motor pulley and drum.
Step 2: Assess the Belt and Tensioner Condition
If the belt is broken (in two pieces or missing from the drum), the replacement is straightforward. If the belt is still intact but slipping:
- Check the belt surface for glazing (shiny, smooth — lost its grip texture)
- Check for cracks or missing ribs
- Test the tensioner: push the tensioner arm toward the motor — it should require firm pressure and spring back strongly when released. If it moves too easily or feels mushy, the tensioner spring is worn and MUST be replaced along with the belt.
Step 3: Remove the Old Belt
Push the spring-loaded tensioner arm toward the motor. This releases belt tension and creates slack. With your other hand, slip the belt off the motor pulley first, then off the tensioner, and finally unloop it from around the drum.
If the belt broke during operation, one piece may be trapped behind the drum. Fish it out carefully — leaving belt debris inside can jam the new belt against the tub walls.
Step 4: Install the New Belt
Route the new belt (137315300) around the drum first. The flat (smooth) side contacts the drum surface. The ribbed side faces outward.
Now route the belt under the motor pulley and over the tensioner pulley — both with the ribbed side contacting the pulleys for grip. To create slack for routing: push the tensioner arm toward the motor (releasing spring pressure), route the belt over the pulleys, then release the tensioner. It should snap into position and hold the belt taut.
Spin the drum by hand one full revolution. Verify the belt tracks straight on the drum without rubbing the tub walls or wandering to one side. If it tracks off-center, the drum pulley may be damaged or the belt is the wrong size — verify part number against your model.
Step 5: Replace the Tensioner (If Needed)
If the tensioner spring was weak during assessment: the tensioner is typically mounted with a single bolt at its pivot point plus one or two alignment pins. Remove the bolt, note the orientation, install the new tensioner, and verify the spring holds strong tension when the belt is routed.
A weak tensioner with a new belt results in belt slipping under spin load — you will hear the squeal return within 1-2 weeks. This is the most common reason for repeat belt replacements.
Step 6: Reassemble and Test
Replace the rear panel using the original screws in their correct positions (longer screws at structural points, shorter at perimeter). Push the washer back into position.
Run a spin-only cycle (or a normal cycle with a small load). Listen for: smooth startup (no squeal), consistent spin speed (no hesitation), and no rubbing noises. The belt should be silent during normal operation.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
- New belt squeals immediately: The tensioner is weak — replace it. A new belt will not fix a worn tensioner spring.
- Belt rides off the drum pulley edge: The drum pulley surface may be rough or damaged from the old belt debris. Inspect and clean the pulley surface. If deeply scored, the pulley needs replacement.
- Motor spins but drum barely moves: Verify belt is routed ribbed-side on pulleys. A reversed belt will slip constantly.
- Cannot get enough slack to route belt: You must push the tensioner arm firmly toward the motor with one hand while routing with the other. If still impossible, ensure you have the correct belt size (137315300 for standard EFLS models).
- Burning smell after replacement: A belt that is too tight (wrong size) or rubbing against the tub wall will generate heat and odor. Stop immediately and inspect routing.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Appliances involve high voltage (120-240V), pressurized water, gas lines, and chemical refrigerants. Over 400 DIY repair injuries are reported yearly. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
When to Call a Professional
- If the motor shaft is worn or the motor pulley is damaged — indicates bearing or motor issues beyond a belt replacement
- If the drum does not turn freely by hand even without the belt — internal bearing failure requires a separate, more involved repair
- If the spider assembly (rear drum mount) is cracked or corroded — the drum will wobble even with a perfect belt
Same-Day Appliance Repair
Fixed or It's Free
$89 → $0 Service Call & Diagnosis — offer ends May 25
Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $15-$60 (belt + tensioner) | $15-$60 |
| Labor | $0 | $120-$200 |
| Time | 0.5h | 0.3h |
| Risk | Low — straightforward repair | Warranty included |
The Real Cost of DIY
Average DIY attempt: $150-400 in tools you may use once, plus the risk of further damage. Our diagnostic visit costs $0 — we find the problem and give you an honest quote.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
Need Professional Help?
FAQ
Q: How do I know if my Frigidaire washer belt needs replacement? A: Signs: drum will not spin but motor runs (broken belt), squealing on startup (glazed/slipping belt), or black rubber dust under the machine. Remove the rear panel and inspect for cracks, glazing, or fraying.
Q: What is the correct belt part number for a Frigidaire EFLS front-load washer? A: The standard belt is 137315300, a multi-rib belt with flat side against the drum and ribbed side on pulleys.
Q: Should I replace the tensioner when I replace the belt? A: If the belt slipped or squealed rather than breaking cleanly, yes. A new belt on a weak tensioner will fail again within weeks.
Q: How long does a Frigidaire washer belt last? A: Typically 8-12 years under normal use. If it breaks before 5 years, inspect for rough drum pulley or misaligned tensioner.
Need a certified technician? Book same-day repair →
