What this usually means
On a Gorenje dishwasher, most leaks come from the door seal or from too much foam rather than from a failed component. A seal that has hardened, or a gap where the door does not pull up square, lets water out along the bottom edge during the wash. A supply-hose leak is far less common but far more damaging, because it runs under mains pressure whether the machine is on or not. European cycle logic runs longer and gentler than American logic, so the machine tolerates a partial fault for weeks before it shows you an obvious symptom.
The symptoms, and the ones that mean something else
- Water only at the end of the cycle — The drain hose or the clip at the waste connection.
- A leak that is there with the machine switched off — The supply side, which is under mains pressure continuously.
- Water along the floor at the bottom of the door — The door seal, the door squareness, or foam.
- NEAR MISS: water inside the base and none on the floor — That is a drainage fault and belongs on the page for a dishwasher that will not drain.
What it usually is, in order of likelihood
- Foam from the wrong detergent — Washing-up liquid, or far too much dishwasher detergent, generates foam that climbs the door and finds its way out at the bottom edge. Ranked first on a Gorenje dishwasher: these machines are specified for detergents and loads that a North American household often does not use.
- A hardened, dirty or displaced door seal — The seal round the door is the only thing holding water inside a cabinet that is being sprayed hard, and it hardens and takes a set over years. Ranked second on a Gorenje dishwasher: European cycle logic is long and gentle, so a partial fault is tolerated for weeks and only the end of it is visible.
- A drain hose or clip that has worked loose — The drain hose is only under pressure while the pump runs, so this leak arrives in a burst at the end of a cycle and is dry the rest of the time. Ranked third on a Gorenje dishwasher: the drain and filter design assumes the owner cleans it on a schedule, and that is the assumption that fails first.
The order to work in, and the reason for it
- Look through the door for foam standing well above the water — Visible foam means this is a chemistry problem rather than a seal problem.
- Run a finger round the seal feeling for hard, flat or displaced sections — Grease and food residue on the seal also stop it sealing, and both wipe off.
- Watch under the sink while the machine drains — A leak confined to the drain stage is the hose or the clip at the waste connection.
Owner-side checks, step by step
- Run an empty cycle with no detergent to clear the foam, then use the correct dose — Never use hand washing-up liquid in a dishwasher — it foams uncontrollably.
About 45 min
- Clean the seal and its channel, and press any displaced section back into place — A seal that has pulled out of its groove at a corner is a common and free fix.
Tools: clothAbout 20 min
- STOP HERE once the seal, the door, and both hose connections are proven — Reaching the sump means pulling the machine out from under the worktop.
Read this before you start
Safety
Switch off the breaker before mopping under or behind the machine, and close the supply tap before touching any connection. Water under a built-in machine reaches cabinet bases and flooring first, so act promptly rather than watching it. Be careful in the sump, where broken glass collects invisibly, and never mix dishwasher detergent with bleach or other cleaning products.
When this becomes a service call
Call once the seal is clean and intact, the door closes square, the detergent is correct and both hose connections are dry, and water still appears — that points at the tub, the sump or an internal hose, and reaching any of them means pulling the machine out. Call immediately for any leak that reaches an outlet, and switch off at the breaker first.
The closest pages to this one
The limits of this page
This page covers the Gorenje dishwasher as a class, not one family or model line. Part numbers, wiring colours, torque figures and panel fixings differ from build to build and are deliberately not here. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit, that page is the more specific answer and should be read first.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
