GE Washer Gasket Replacement Guide

The door boot is the flexible rubber seal between the tub and the door glass. It flexes on every spin, traps a little water in its folds, and lives in the warm, damp environment mold loves — which is why it is both the most common leak point and the most common odor source on a front-loader. Replacing it fixes both problems at once.

What the Door Boot Does#

The boot seals the gap between the stationary front cabinet and the spinning tub, keeping wash water inside while the door glass presses against it. It is held by two spring-loaded retaining bands — an outer one at the cabinet and an inner one at the tub. On GE models with the UltraFresh vent system, a small vent in the boot area helps it dry out between loads, but folds in the rubber still collect residue over time.

Symptoms of a Failing Boot#

• Water pooling on the floor at the front of the machine during wash or spin
• Persistent black or pink mold in the rubber folds that returns after cleaning
• A sour, musty smell in clean laundry
• Visible tears, cracks, or a torn drain slot in the rubber
• Small items like socks slipping past a split in the boot into the tub

Clean Before You Condemn#

If there is no tear, odor and light mold can often be cleaned rather than replaced. Wipe the folds with a mold-killing cleaner, pull back the boot lip to reach trapped debris, and leave the door ajar between loads so it dries. Replace the boot only when the rubber is physically torn, split at the drain slot, or so mold-stained that cleaning no longer helps.

Step-by-Step Replacement#

1. Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply.
2. Open the door and pry the outer spring band off the front lip of the boot with a flat screwdriver, working around until it releases.
3. Peel the boot forward off the cabinet flange, noting the alignment mark that indexes the drain slot to the bottom.
4. Open the front panel or reach in per your model to release the inner spring band at the tub, then remove the old boot.
5. Seat the new WH08X26563 boot onto the tub flange with its drain slot at the bottom, and refit the inner band.
6. Stretch the boot onto the front cabinet flange and reinstall the outer spring band, making sure it seats fully in the groove.
7. Restore water and power, then run a rinse-and-spin and watch closely for leaks.

Tools You Will Need#

• A flat-head screwdriver to lever the spring bands
• Needle-nose pliers to help set the band tension
• A flashlight to confirm the boot seats evenly all the way around

Repair or Replace the Washer#

A door boot is a moderate-cost part, and the machine around it is usually fine, so replacing the boot is the right call on any washer under a decade old. Only look at a new unit if the bearings or drum spider have also gone.

What It Costs#

GE does not publish one price — the boot part varies by model and labor depends on how much of the front must come apart. Because a light-mold boot can sometimes be cleaned instead, inspect for actual tears before ordering. Match the correct boot to your model, such as WH08X26563 for GFW850 machines.

How Long It Lasts and How to Protect It#

A door boot commonly lasts eight to ten years. Leaving the door open to dry, wiping the folds, and not overdosing detergent — which leaves residue mold feeds on — all extend its life. On UltraFresh models, let the vent system finish its dry cycle rather than closing the door immediately after a load.

Testing for the Leak Source#

Before blaming the boot, confirm where the water comes from. Run a short cycle and watch the front lower corners: a boot leak drips from the door seam, while water from below points at the drain pump or a hose instead. A flashlight along the bottom of the boot reveals the small split at the drain slot that most front-load door leaks come from.