Oven and range repair guides covering uneven heating, gas igniter diagnosis, error codes, and safety checks for all major brands.
Oven problems show up when the stakes are highest — Thanksgiving turkey, a dinner party, or a weeknight meal when nothing else will do. Uneven heating, a gas burner that clicks but never lights, a self-clean cycle that locks the door permanently, or an error code that kills power to the entire unit: these are the scenarios our guides walk you through step by step, from initial diagnosis through the repair decision.
Gas and electric ovens fail differently and we separate the guides accordingly. Gas oven igniter replacement is the single most common oven repair in our service records — the silicon carbide igniter draws current through a safety valve, and when its resistance rises above the threshold, the valve never opens even though the igniter glows. Electric ovens more often suffer bake or broil element burnout, temperature sensor drift that causes 25-50 degree swings, and control board relay failures on models with electronic controls.
For dual-fuel ranges and commercial-style units (Viking, Wolf, Thermador), we include the specific calibration procedures and error code tables that differ from their residential counterparts. These high-end units require specialized service and our guides tell you exactly which repairs are safe for a homeowner and which demand a certified technician.
613 articles

Most likely: a burned-out element — a bake element that no longer glows, or a cooktop coil with a break or no continuity. But identify which element is dead first, because a surface coil can be the receptacle or infinite switch, not the element. KitchenAid is Whirlpool inside (same F-then-E codes), so parts cross-reference for savings…

Most likely: the door lock never engages, so the board refuses to start the pyrolytic cycle — the top cause, often shown as an F5 E1 code. A thermal fuse tripping mid-cycle or an AquaLift low-temp system that simply cannot clean heavy grease are next. Listen for the lock motor when you press Start…

Most likely: a weakened igniter taking too long to light, so extra gas builds up before it ignites — the top cause of an abnormal gas smell. But first tell normal from dangerous: a brief odor at ignition is normal; a gas smell with the oven OFF is a leak — leave the house and call the gas company. Then work the igniter and burner…

A KitchenAid Even-Heat oven that browns one side and leaves the other pale usually comes down to a stalled convection fan, a partially failed bake element, a drifted sensor, or a stray calibration offset. The five causes ranked, with a biscuit test.

A KitchenAid oven door locked shut after self-clean is usually the lock motor's plastic gears stripped by heat, a control board hung mid-cycle, or a weakened premium-door hinge spring. The two fixes to try first before any teardown.

KitchenAid gas stove burner won't light? A wet or misaligned cap and clogged ports cause most of it. Ranked causes, the spark-gap check, and manual lighting.

Rust on a KitchenAid oven? Chipped porcelain enamel is the top interior cause; PrintShield damage and SatinGlide rail corrosion hit the outside. Fixes inside.

A KitchenAid oven door that sags, will not close flush, or feels loose usually needs a hinge, spring, or gasket. Here is the ranked door fault tree and the fixes.

A KitchenAid oven rarely leaks water — a "leak" is usually steam or heat escaping past a worn door gasket. Here is what each kind of leak means and how to fix it.

Kenmore oven door locked after self-clean? Lock motor and control board diagnosis for 790 and 665 prefix models. Get expert diagnosis and repair costs.

Kenmore oven not heating? Kenmore ovens are made by various manufacturers. Model prefix identifies the platform: 790 (Electrolux/Frigidaire) vs other...

Kenmore oven smoking? Grease residue, element diagnosis, and cleaning guide for 790 and 665 prefix models. Get expert diagnosis and repair costs.

Kenmore oven won't shut off? Control board relay and sensor emergency diagnosis. Kill power immediately. Get expert diagnosis and repair costs.

A Kenmore oven that bakes hot or cold is usually a drifting temperature sensor or a calibration offset, sometimes a failed convection fan. This guide shows how to verify the sensor, calibrate the oven, and confirm the real temperature with a thermometer.

Complete guide to LG oven and range error codes for ProBake, EasyClean, and InstaView models. Covers temperature sensor faults, door lock errors, communication failures, and repairs with LG part numbers.

Complete guide to Miele oven error codes. Covers H series conventional ovens, DGC combi-steam ovens, and Dialog ovens. All fault codes with detailed fixes.

Complete guide to LG oven and range error codes for ProBake, EasyClean, and InstaView models. Covers temperature sensor faults, door lock errors, communication failures, and repairs with LG part numbers.

Complete guide to Miele oven error codes. Covers H series conventional ovens, DGC combi-steam ovens, and Dialog ovens. All fault codes with detailed fixes.

Jenn-Air oven door stuck shut, typically after self-clean? It's the thermal lock waiting to cool. Learn to release it and what to check if the latch motor failed.

Most likely: the RTD temperature sensor has drifted — it should read about 1080 to 1100 ohms at room temperature, and drift throws the oven off by 25 to 75 degrees. A calibration offset or a failing convection fan are the other causes. Jenn-Air shares much of its parts platform with KitchenAid.

Most likely: the door-lock motor cannot engage the safety latch, so the self-clean cycle never starts, or a tripped high-limit thermostat is blocking it. Jenn-Air (Whirlpool W-series) diagnosis for the lock, thermostat, and control board.

Jenn-Air oven not heating? The F-codes point the way — F1 touchpad, F2 over-temp, F3/F4 sensor — plus the gas igniter. Ranked causes on the Whirlpool platform.

A Hotpoint oven baking at the wrong temperature is usually a drifted sensor or a slipped calibration — the calibration is free. Verify with a thermometer first. EasyBear guide.

Hotpoint oven not heating at all? On these budget ranges it's usually an open bake element, a failed igniter on a gas model, or a control fault. Here's the order to check.

Most likely: a power-supply fault — a half-tripped double-pole breaker leaves the display alive on 120V while the elements never get their 240V. A stuck self-clean lock, a failed control board, or a blown thermal fuse are next. Hotpoint is GE inside, so GE parts fit. Check the breaker and the lock before opening anything…
Oven not heating to the right temperature? Learn how to diagnose thermostat, sensor, and calibration issues with step-by-step fixes and cost breakdowns.
Oven not heating to the right temperature? Learn how to diagnose thermostat, sensor, and calibration issues with step-by-step fixes and cost breakdowns.

GE oven keeps heating after you turn it off? A welded control relay, a stuck sensor reading, or a gas valve fault is behind it. Here's the safe step to take and what to check.

A GE oven that won't start is a power or control-level fault, not a heating fault. The first split — dead panel vs lit panel — tells you exactly where to look.

Burning smell from a GE oven? Classify it first — a gas or rotten-egg smell is an emergency, an acrid electrical smell means cut power now, and food or new-oven smells are low urgency. Then match it to the GE-specific cause, from an arcing element to self-clean residue.