Dryer repair guides for no-heat, long cycles, and error codes. Covers gas and electric models, vent safety, and thermal fuse diagnosis.
A dryer that takes two cycles to dry a load or shuts off mid-cycle is more than an inconvenience — it wastes energy, wears out clothes faster, and in the case of gas dryers, can signal a safety hazard. Our troubleshooting guides start with the most statistically likely cause for each symptom: no heat is a thermal fuse 60% of the time, long dry times point to a blocked vent in 70% of service calls, and a drum that tumbles but produces no warmth usually means a failed heating element or gas valve coil.
We break down diagnosis separately for gas and electric dryers because the repair process differs at every step. Gas dryers require igniter and flame sensor testing with a multimeter, while electric dryers need element continuity checks and high-limit thermostat diagnosis. Each guide includes the specific resistance readings you should expect and the exact replacement part numbers for the five most common models we service in the Sacramento and Bay Area markets.
Dryer venting deserves its own section in every guide because lint-clogged vents cause an estimated 2,900 house fires per year in the US. California building codes require rigid metal ducts (not foil flex) for new installations, and our maintenance guides walk you through a full vent inspection with the tools most homeowners already own.
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Most likely: on an electric GFD model it is a tripped one-shot thermal fuse (WE04X10120) or a burned-out heating element (WE11M10001); on a gas GTD model it is a worn pair of gas valve solenoids (WE14X215) that heat briefly then quit. Both platforms share the same drum drive, so the tumbler still…

Most likely: something mechanical in the drum is snagging fabric — worn drum glides or a rough rear bearing, or a torn felt seal pulling clothes into the bulkhead gap. A foreign object lodged in the drum or lint chute is the other culprit. Scorching instead of tearing points at overheating.

Most likely: a GE dryer has no drain to fail — it is vented, so water inside is exhaust condensing in a cold or restricted duct and running back. Fouled Sensor Dry bars ending cycles early is the other pattern. Confirm electric GFD or gas GTD, then chase airflow first.

Most likely: a restricted vent trapping heat past the design temperature, scorching loads. If airflow is clear, a cycling thermostat stuck closed, a failed high-limit thermostat, or a low-reading thermistor (WE04X25929) keeps the heat climbing. Left alone it opens the thermal fuse.

A burning smell from a GE dryer is most often lint near the heating element, then a slipping belt or an overheating motor. Ranked causes, the ones that mean stop using it now, and safe checks including the vent.

Most likely: worn drum support rollers, which thump rhythmically once per turn and are loudest with an empty drum. A squealing idler pulley (WE12X10014), a cracked belt (WE12M29), or an object stuck in the drum seam make their own distinct sounds…

GE dryer drum not turning? Diagnose worn belt (WE12M29), failed idler pulley (WE12X10014), motor issues (WE17X10010), and door switch faults on GFD and GTD.

Dryers are the most repair-friendly appliance — element, fuse, and belt fixes run $100–300, so repair wins far more often than not. Cost math, the motor exception, and gas vs electric.

Dryers are the most repair-friendly appliance — element, fuse, and belt fixes run $100–300, so repair wins far more often than not. Cost math, the motor exception, and gas vs electric.

Fisher & Paykel dryer squealing, thumping, or rattling? Drum bearing, belt, and blower wheel diagnostics for all Fisher & Paykel dryer models.

Fisher & Paykel dryer wont start? Expert diagnosis of common causes, model-specific fixes, and repair costs for Fisher & Paykel dryers. Book same-day repair.

A Fisher & Paykel dryer that takes two cycles is almost always an airflow problem — a clogged vent or a film-coated lint filter — before it's ever the heater.

Fisher & Paykel heat pump or vented dryer not heating? Heating element, thermistor, and heat pump diagnostics for Fisher & Paykel DH and DE series.

Frigidaire dryer not spinning? Expert diagnosis of common causes, model-specific fixes, and repair costs for Frigidaire dryers. Book same-day repair.

A noisy Frigidaire dryer usually points to worn drum rollers (thumping), a worn belt or idler (squealing), or drum glides (scraping). This guide maps the noise type to the part, ranks the causes, and shows the checks to quiet it down.

An Electrolux dryer not heating is a burned element, a tripped high-limit thermostat, or a restricted vent — often the vent behind them all. E64 vs E63 and Perfect Steam. EasyBear.

Electrolux dryer taking too long to dry? Restricted airflow — a clogged vent or lint screen — is the cause nine times out of ten. Here's how to fix it safely.

An Electrolux dryer that won't start usually means a door switch, thermal fuse, or start switch. Triage dead vs. clicks vs. no-heat with this EasyBear repair guide.

A noisy Electrolux dryer is usually a worn drum roller, belt, glide, or idler pulley — and each makes a distinct sound. Match yours and fix it.

An Electrolux dryer that hums but won't spin usually has a broken drive belt, then worn drum rollers or a failed motor. This guide ranks the causes, explains what humming versus silence tells you, and shows the DIY checks for a stationary drum.

LG dryer not heating or drying clothes? Diagnose the 6 most common causes with our expert guide. Covers LG electric and gas dryer models.

LG dryer not heating or drying clothes? Diagnose the 6 most common causes with our expert guide. Covers LG electric and gas dryer models.

A Bosch dryer running too hot is usually a lint-clogged condenser, an NTC sensor reading low, or a stuck safety thermostat. Here are the causes ranked by likelihood, the safety steps to take first, and the DIY checks that fix most cases.

A Bosch compact dryer that runs long is most often a lint-clogged condenser or coated moisture sensors — not a broken part. On these ventless heat-pump machines, both are owner-cleanable.

Most likely a component has a ground fault: the heating element leaking to the chassis (on WGA condenser models), the EcoSilence motor's winding insulation breaking down, or a shorted control board that trips the instant you plug in. Moisture in the electronics and chafed wiring round it out. Disconnect parts one at a time until the trip stops.

Most likely: the moisture sensor bars are coated with fabric-softener film, so the AutoDry logic never reads the load as dry and the cycle runs on. Clean them first — it fixes nearly half of cases. A failed sensor, a stuck control board, or a genuinely soaked load are the rest…

Bosch dryer won't start? Step-by-step diagnosis of power supply issues, door interlock failure, child lock, and control board faults on 24-inch WTW/WGA...

Most likely: one of the four adjustable feet is off the floor, so the compact drum rocks — or the load has bunched to one side. Leveling, stacking-kit, bearing, and shipping-bolt checks for 24-inch Bosch dryers.

Bosch dryer stuck on the same time? AutoDry estimates from moisture sensors, so dirty sensor bars are the top cause. Ranked causes and how to clean them.

A Bosch dryer running too hot or too cool usually has a thermistor, heating element, or airflow fault in the heat-regulation chain. Here is the ranked diagnosis.