The short answer
On the YCD family water inside the cabinet and water on the floor are two different faults. The first is a blocked defrost drain; the second is usually a supply connection. The brand-generic page runs them together and this one does not.
What you observe
- A sheet of ice on the floor of the compartment — Same fault caught later, once the pooled water has frozen.
- Water on the floor at the front — The cabinet floor slopes forward, so a rear leak arrives at the front.
- Damp only at the back of the machine — Supply-side: the inlet connection or the line, and it will be wet when the unit is idle.
- Water pooling under the crisper drawers — The classic blocked defrost drain: melt water has nowhere to go and backs into the cabinet.
- NEAR MISS - condensation on the outside of the doors — That is humidity and seal performance, not a leak.
Causes, most likely first on YCD
- Water supply connection or line — Ranked first on the YCD family: a small unit is moved more often than a built-in, and the line is strained every time. This moves above blocked defrost drain, which leads the brand-generic order, because this family is a single build with fixed access points.
- Blocked defrost drain — Second: a compact cabinet has a very short drain that a single piece of debris can close completely.
- Drain pan cracked or displaced — Third: the pan is the end of the drain path and is disturbed whenever the unit is moved, which makes a recent move the thing to ask about.
- Door seals and condensation — Fourth: a glass door on this class of unit condenses readily once the seal has taken a set.
- Ice maker fill valve or its tubing — Last: last, and only relevant where a module is fitted, but a weeping fill valve leaks steadily rather than in step with the defrost cycle.
Check in this order, and why
- Empty the compartment and find the drain opening — It is visible once the shelves are out.
- Check the cabinet is level and tilted very slightly back — A cabinet leaning forward sends melt water towards the door instead of the drain.
- Pull the unit out and look at the connection and the pan — Do this with the cabinet idle: supply leaks are wet when nothing is running.
- Test the seals with a sheet of paper around each door — Last, because it explains condensation rather than standing water.
Before you open anything
Safety
Kill the power at the breaker first, shut the water at the stop tap before touching a fill line, and call at once if you see oil at the compressor or smell burning.
When to call a technician
Call when the drain keeps blocking after being cleared, because that usually means the drain heater or the defrost circuit is at fault rather than the channel itself.
