The short answer
On the G family an ice fault is usually a water-supply or temperature problem rather than a failed ice module, and the split between the two decides everything. That reorders the brand-generic page, which starts at the module itself.
What you observe
- No ice at all and a dry mould — Water is not arriving: supply, valve or a frozen fill tube.
- Mould fills but the ice never releases — A temperature or harvest fault rather than a supply fault.
- Hollow, small or slow-forming cubes — Partial supply restriction, often a part-closed stop tap or a clogged filter.
- Ice tastes or smells wrong — An old filter or long-stored ice absorbing cabinet odours rather than a mechanical fault.
- NEAR MISS - the whole cabinet is warm — Fix the cooling fault first; ice production is the first thing to stop when a cabinet warms.
Causes, most likely first on G
- Water supply: stop tap, line or a frozen fill tube — Ranked first on the G family: these installations have a long supply run behind a built-in housing, where the stop tap is easy to leave part closed. What decides the order here is where the cold has to travel, and that is fixed for every model in the family. What moves against the brand-generic order is lower down: freezer compartment not cold enough sits above ice module, fill valve or the harvest mechanism here, because this family is a single build with fixed access points.
- Water filter overdue or restricting — Second: a filter past its life throttles the fill before it stops it, which is why hollow and undersized cubes arrive long before no cubes at all.
- Freezer compartment not cold enough — Third: a tall cabinet can be cold at one end and marginal at the other, so the ice module sees a different temperature from the food.
- Ice module, fill valve or the harvest mechanism — Fourth: the valve is at the back of the housing and is a service item on a built-in cabinet.
- Arm, switch or the ice-off setting — Last: a control lock or a setting left off during a service visit produces a perfect no-ice fault.
Check in this order, and why
- Check the arm or the ice-off setting first — It takes seconds and explains a total no-ice with nothing broken.
- Check the bin is fully home and the chute is clear — A bin not seated holds the arm up or blocks the chute and stops production entirely.
- Confirm the stop tap is open and the filter is current — A part-closed tap or an overdue filter gives small hollow cubes rather than none.
- Check the compartment temperature before blaming the module — A freezer holds food safely at 0 °F (−18 °C) or below; above that, no module will keep up.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Refrigerant work is licensed work, so leave the whole sealed system to a licensed technician, and call at once if you see oil at the compressor or smell burning.
When to call a technician
Call once water is proven to reach the mould and the compartment is cold enough but no ice forms: what is left is the module or its harvest circuit, and neither is an owner part here.
Other G pages
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Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
