What this usually is
Water pooling inside the fresh-food compartment and water pooling on the kitchen floor are two different faults that happen to share a page. The supply line and its fitting are behind the cabinet and produce a steady puddle that does not respond to anything done inside. Find out whether the water is cold and clean or not, and whether it appears whether or not the icemaker is running. This family resolves to one listing, which makes the page unusually definite about what it covers.
What you actually see
- Water appears only after the icemaker fills — Points at the fill tube, the tray or the connection to it rather than at the defrost side.
- The drain pan at the back is full or overflowing — Normal for the pan to hold water; not normal for it to overflow, which means more water than the airflow can evaporate.
- Water under the crisper drawers inside the cabinet — The signature of a blocked defrost drain. It collects in the lowest part of the fresh-food liner and nowhere else.
- NEAR MISS — the cabinet is also warm — Then the leak is secondary to an airflow problem and the cooling page for this family is where to start.
Causes, most likely first on this roster
- Defrost drain blocked with ice or debris — Top of the list and not close. The drain entry sits at the coldest point in the cabinet, so a slow drain becomes a frozen one, and a season of food debris finishes the job.
- Door seal set, torn or held open — Humid room air meeting cold surfaces. Commoner in summer, commoner still where a bottle or a shelf stops the door travelling the last few millimetres.
- Supply line, fitting or inlet valve leaking — Last by frequency and first by urgency. This is mains water rather than condensate, it does not stop on its own, and it is the one cause on this list that will keep running all week.
The diagnostic order for this family
- Establish whether the water is inside the liner or on the floor — Inside means condensate and the drain; outside at the back means supply. This single observation halves the list.
- Check whether the water appears in step with the icemaker — Water that arrives shortly after a fill belongs to the icemaker path and not to the defrost path.
- Look behind the cabinet at the supply fitting and the tap — Do this early despite it being the least likely: a mains leak is the only one here that gets worse while you think about it.
- Check the cabinet sits level and the drain pan is seated — Both are free, both are common after a cabinet has been moved, and both send water somewhere it was never meant to go.
- Dry everything, then look again after one defrost cycle — Establishes whether the water arrives on a schedule, which separates the drain from everything else.
- Put paper towel under the cabinet overnight — Where it wets first tells you front or back, and that halves the list before any panel comes off.
Before you open anything
Safety
Kill the supply before anything else happens: unplug it, or switch the breaker off. A capacitor can hold a charge long after the power has gone.
Models in the WCN family — The listings below are what this page covers; it is a family page, not a model page.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| WCN311942G | asko:refrigerator:wcn |
When to call a technician
The owner line on this family is the drain channel. If flushing it from inside the cabinet does not clear it, the blockage is in the tube behind the liner and reaching it means the cabinet comes apart, which is service work on this roster.
Other pages for this family
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Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
