Start here
The Artt ATED dryer family covers two listings in the roster below, and on that platform the door switch and a protective device cover most of these. A dryer that will not start is sorted by what happens when the button is pressed: nothing, a lit panel that ignores it, or a hum. The door switch is the most common single failure and the easiest to test by hand.
What you observe
- The panel lights up but the start button does nothing — Power is present and something is preventing the start: the door switch, a child lock, or a protective device that has opened in the start circuit.
- A hum when start is pressed, with no drum movement — The motor is energised and cannot turn, or has lost its drive. A broken belt often leaves exactly this impression, and the machine should not be left trying.
- It starts, runs for a second and stops — Something is dropping out immediately: a door switch that is marginal, or a protective device that opens as soon as load is applied.
- It stopped working straight after a cycle that ran very hot — A protective device has almost certainly opened, and the reason it opened is a vent that needs clearing before anything is replaced.
- NEAR MISS — the drum turns but there is no heat — A machine that runs a full cycle cold is a heating fault rather than a start fault, and the not-heating page is where that shortlist lives.
Causes, most likely first on the ATED line
- Door switch not making — Ranked first here: it is operated every single time the machine is used, it is a simple mechanical contact, and no dryer will run without it, which together make it the most common single reason a dryer will not start. Nothing in the roster below splits these listings apart for this fault, so the order that follows holds across the whole label.
- Thermal fuse or protective device open after an overheat — Second here: on many machines these sit in the start circuit rather than only in the heating circuit, so a blocked vent that caused an overheat presents afterwards as a dryer that will not start at all.
- Broken belt leaving the motor free — Third here: the motor spins without resistance and the drum stays still, which owners describe as a hum, and it is mechanical rather than electrical even though it presents as a start fault.
- Motor or its capacitor — Last, and the reason is this — it is the least common of these, and because a motor fault usually announces itself by struggling and running hot before it refuses to start at all.
The order to work in
- Prove the socket with another appliance — A lamp or a charger in the same socket settles the supply question in seconds and should be done before the machine is moved or opened for any reason.
- Operate the door switch by hand and listen — Close the door slowly and listen for a click, then press it by hand with the door open if the design allows.
- Ask what the machine did before it stopped — A dryer that stopped starting immediately after a very hot or very long cycle has almost certainly opened a protective device, and the vent is the reason.
- Turn the drum by hand with the power off — A drum that turns freely means nothing is seized, so the fault is electrical. A drum that will not move at all changes the shortlist entirely.
Before you open anything
Safety
Test the socket with another appliance first, then unplug this one before any panel is removed — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Lint is fuel and the heating circuit is the ignition source, which is why the whole vent run gets cleared rather than the end that is easy to reach. Never fit a new protective device to make a machine run, and never vent a dryer into the room it stands in..
Models in the ATED family — Written for the whole roster above rather than for one listing; where a page exists for one of these models it goes further than this one. Model numbers come from the platform data and are reproduced unchanged.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ATED67 | artt:dryer:ated |
| ATED70U | artt:dryer:ated |
When to call a technician
Call an electrician rather than an appliance engineer if the breaker trips on start, or if the machine is only partly alive on an electric supply. A long cycle is an efficiency problem; a hot cabinet that stops early is a safety one, and the two should not be scheduled the same way.
Other faults covered for the ATED line
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
