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A leaking MK unit is telling you where its meltwater is going, not that it is broken. A leak that started after the unit was moved is a level problem until proven otherwise, so the ranking below departs from the brand-generic order. Start with the cabinet standing out of level and leave a split drain hose or a failed seam until everything cheaper has been excluded.
The observables
- Standing water on the compartment floor — Enough to see, sitting in the channel rather than spread across the base.
- Water only after the unit has been open or switched off — Nothing during normal running, then a puddle after a stop.
- A damp patch under the machinery end — Spread rather than pooled, and it dries and returns on its own rhythm.
- NEAR MISS - water only once, right after a move — A unit laid down or carried warm sheds what it was holding. One puddle after a move is not a fault; a second one is.
Causes, most likely first on this line
- The cabinet standing out of level — The leading cause on these models: the tell is a leak that only happens in one position: the unit was moved, and the water started.
- A blocked condensate drain path — Second: everything the plate sheds has to leave through one small outlet. Once that outlet is even partly restricted the trough holds water between cycles, and the first time the cabinet is tilted or opened it runs out over the lip.
- Warm air getting past the door or lid seal — Third, and worth excluding before going further: a compact cabinet has one gasket doing all the sealing, and warm room air that reaches a cold surface gives up its moisture there. A gasket that has taken a set, or that is held open a fraction by a shelf or a full basket, condenses water continuously without ever letting the cabinet warm enough to be noticed.
- A split drain hose or a failed seam — It ranks last for the usual reason: it is rare, and every cheaper cause above it explains the same puddle.
The order to work in
- Check that the cabinet stands level and square — Put a level across the top in both directions, or simply pour a spoonful of water onto the compartment floor and watch which way it runs. It should run to the outlet.
- Clear and test the compartment drain — With the unit emptied, look for standing water in the trough before you touch anything. A trough that is wet while the plate is dry means the outlet, not the seal.
- Test the seal along its whole length — Close the door on a strip of paper at several points and pull. Where it slides out with no resistance the gasket is not making contact, and that is where the condensation forms.
Before any panel comes off
Safety
Isolate the unit at the plug or the breaker before any panel comes off - a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Mop the floor first: standing water underneath a cabinet you are about to tip or move is how this job hurts people.
Models in the MK family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| MK18 | alpicool:refrigerator:mk |
| MK25 | alpicool:refrigerator:mk |
| MK35 | alpicool:refrigerator:mk |
When this stops being owner work
Call when the leak survives a cleared drain and a level cabinet, and call immediately if you find water where the supply lead enters or under the machinery end. Water reaching insulation gets worse every week it is left, so this is not one to watch for a month.
Same line, other symptoms
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
