The short answer
When an A Premium C cabinet stops making ice, the fault is far more often in the water getting to the mould than in the ice maker itself. An ice maker is a small machine bolted into a cold box: it needs water delivered, a compartment cold enough to freeze it, and a harvest cycle to drop the cubes. Work out which of those three has stopped and the part list shrinks to one. The table below lists one model for this family, so there is no second configuration to rule out before you begin.
What you observe on these models
- No ice at all and a mould that is completely dry — Nothing is arriving, so the fault is upstream of the ice maker — the supply, the valve or the line.
- A solid slab in the mould rather than separate cubes — Water arrived and froze, but the harvest did not run or the cubes refroze on the way out.
- Small, hollow or cloudy cubes — The fill is short, which usually means restricted water rather than a failed ice maker.
- Ice in the bin fused into one lump — That is melting and refreezing, which points at freezer temperature or a door that is not sealing.
- NEAR MISS — no ice and the freezer is not properly cold either — Fix the cooling first; the ice maker is only a symptom of that, and the cooling page for this family is the right one.
Causes, most likely first on the C family
- The water supply, the shut-off valve or a frozen fill line — It is the longest part of the chain and the only part exposed to freezing air, so a fill tube that ices up stops the machine dead while everything else tests perfectly. On the C family this holds without qualification, because the family covers one configuration rather than a spread of them.
- A clogged water filter or a filter fitted wrong — A filter past its life restricts flow enough to produce short fills and hollow cubes long before it stops the water completely, so the symptom creeps in rather than arriving.
- The freezer not cold enough to trigger a harvest — An ice maker will not cycle until the mould reaches its thermostat point, so a freezer running a little warm produces no ice at all rather than less ice.
- The inlet valve itself — The valve is electrically operated and fails closed more often than open, which produces exactly the same dry mould as a closed supply tap and is only separable after the tap has been ruled out.
Check in this order on these models, and why
- Check the supply valve is fully open and the line is not kinked behind the cabinet — First because it costs nothing, needs no panel off, and accounts for a large share of no-ice calls.
- Try the dispenser if the cabinet has one, and note the flow — Second because a weak dispenser and no ice together point straight at the filter and skip the rest of the list.
- Check the freezer is at 0 degrees Fahrenheit, which is minus 18 degrees Celsius, or below — Third, and it decides whether this is an ice fault or a cooling fault in disguise.
Models in the C family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| C50 | a-premium:refrigerator:c |
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Close the water shut-off valve before disconnecting any line, and have a towel ready because the line stays charged after the valve is shut. Do not thaw a frozen fill tube with an open flame or a heat gun; warm water is slower and will not melt the plastic it runs through.
When to call a technician
Call a technician when the supply, the filter and the freezer temperature are all proven good and the mould still will not fill or will not harvest. Call sooner if you find water anywhere on the floor or inside the cabinet base, because a leaking inlet valve or a split line does not get better on its own and a slow leak behind a refrigerator finds the floor covering long before it finds you.
Other problems covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
