Kenmore Refrigerator Making Noise — Identifying Sounds by Platform

Refrigerator noises fall into two categories: normal operational sounds that have always been present but are now more noticeable, and new abnormal sounds that indicate component failure. With Kenmore refrigerators specifically, the type of noise and its source depend heavily on which manufacturer built your unit. A Kenmore 106-series (Whirlpool) uses a conventional rotary compressor and shaded-pole fan motors that produce one set of characteristic noises. A Kenmore 795-series (LG Elite) uses a linear compressor and DC brushless fans that produce completely different sounds when they fail.

Normal Kenmore Refrigerator Sounds

Before diagnosing a noise problem, confirm it is actually abnormal. Every refrigerator produces sounds during operation:

• Low humming (106-series): The Embraco rotary compressor produces a steady hum during run cycles. This is normal and should be barely audible from a few feet away.
• Low humming with periodic clicks (795-series): The LG linear compressor cycles on and off more frequently than a rotary compressor and produces a slight click at each start/stop transition. This intermittent clicking at the start and end of cooling cycles is normal for the LG platform.
• Rushing/gurgling: Refrigerant flowing through the evaporator produces a liquid gurgling sound, especially after defrost cycles. Normal on both platforms.
• Cracking/popping: Thermal expansion of plastic interior panels as temperature changes. Normal, more audible on newer units with thinner panels.
• Fan whir: The evaporator and condenser fans produce a steady airflow sound. Should be smooth without grinding or scraping.

Abnormal Noises in Kenmore 106-Series (Whirlpool Platform)

Click-Buzz-Click Repeating Pattern

What it means: The compressor start relay is failing. The relay attempts to start the compressor (click), the compressor motor tries to engage but fails and trips the thermal overload (buzz lasting 2-5 seconds), then the overload resets (click). This pattern repeats every 2-5 minutes.

Component: Start relay, Whirlpool part W10613606. This is a small device plugged directly onto the compressor terminal pins at the rear lower section of the unit.

Urgency: Moderate. The compressor is not running during this condition, so cooling has stopped. However, the repeated failed start attempts can eventually damage the compressor motor windings if allowed to continue for days.

Fix: Replace the start relay. This is a plug-and-play component — pull the old relay off the compressor terminals, push the new one on. No tools required beyond pulling the fridge away from the wall. Total repair time including moving the unit: 10 minutes.

Parts Cost: $15-30 Professional Repair Cost: $90-150

Grinding or Scraping from Freezer Section

What it means: The evaporator fan motor bearings are worn, or ice has formed around the fan blades and they are scraping against the ice mass. On 106-series units, the evaporator fan is a shaded-pole motor with sleeve bearings that wear over time (typical lifespan 8-12 years).

Diagnostic: Open the freezer door. On 106-series Kenmore fridges, the evaporator fan stops when the door opens (controlled by the door switch). If the noise stops immediately when you open the freezer, it is definitively the evaporator fan. Close the door and press the door switch manually — if grinding resumes, the motor is the source.

If caused by ice: Manual defrost (unplug 24 hours) will temporarily resolve the noise, but the underlying defrost failure must be addressed to prevent recurrence.

If caused by worn motor: Replace evaporator fan motor, Whirlpool part W10189703. Requires removing the rear freezer panel (Phillips screws), disconnecting one wire harness, and unbolting the motor from its bracket.

Parts Cost: $25-55 Professional Repair Cost: $140-230

Rattling or Buzzing from Bottom Rear

What it means: The condenser fan motor (located at the bottom rear of the unit beside the compressor) has worn bearings, or debris has accumulated around the fan blade. On 106-series units, the condenser fan runs whenever the compressor runs. Over time, dust bunnies and pet hair can wrap around the fan shaft and create an unbalanced condition that produces rattling.

Diagnostic: Pull the fridge away from the wall. Remove the rear access panel (2-4 screws). With the unit running, observe the condenser fan. Visible wobble, debris on blades, or audible bearing noise confirms the source.

Fix: Clean debris from fan blade and surrounding area. If bearings are worn (you can feel play in the shaft when you wiggle the blade by hand with the unit unplugged), replace the motor. Whirlpool part W10124096.

Parts Cost: $20-50 Professional Repair Cost: $120-200

Loud Snap or Pop Every 8-12 Hours

What it means: The defrost heater expanding or contracting when the defrost cycle starts or ends. The glass-tube heater element heats rapidly from room temperature to several hundred degrees, causing thermal expansion that produces an audible snap. This is normal but becomes louder as the heater ages.

Action needed: None unless the snap is accompanied by a burning smell, which could indicate the heater glass tube has cracked.

Abnormal Noises in Kenmore 795-Series (LG Platform)

Loud Knocking Every Few Seconds

What it means: This is the most distinctive sound of LG linear compressor failure. The linear compressor uses an electromagnetic piston that oscillates back and forth. When the piston or its springs wear, it begins striking the ends of its travel violently, producing a rhythmic knocking that sounds like someone tapping the side of the refrigerator with a hammer.

Urgency: High. This indicates the linear compressor is in active failure. It may continue running (poorly) for days to weeks, but the noise will worsen and cooling will progressively degrade.

Action: Check if your unit is covered under the LG linear compressor class action settlement (units manufactured 2014-2020). The settlement covers compressor replacement on affected models regardless of Kenmore branding — the warranty follows the hardware manufacturer, not the badge.

Parts Cost: $0 under warranty / $400-700 out of warranty Professional Repair Cost: $0 under warranty / $600-1,100 out of warranty

High-Pitched Whine or Whistling

What it means: The 795-series uses DC brushless fan motors with electronic speed control. When the motor driver circuit on the main board begins to fail, it may produce pulse-width modulation artifacts that sound like a high-pitched whine. Alternatively, an evaporator fan bearing starting to fail on a DC motor produces a whine rather than the grinding typical of AC shaded-pole motors.

Diagnostic: Locate the sound. If from the top-rear area (where the main board lives), the board may have a failing driver transistor. If from inside the freezer section, the evaporator fan motor is the source.

Parts Cost: $25-55 (fan motor) / $120-250 (main board) Professional Repair Cost: $140-400

Buzzing When Ice Maker Fills

What it means: The water inlet valve solenoid produces a brief buzz when it opens to fill the ice maker. A low-level buzz lasting 7-8 seconds followed by silence is normal fill operation. A continuous loud buzz without water flow indicates the valve solenoid is energized but stuck closed, or water pressure is too low for the valve to open against spring tension.

Diagnostic: Check water supply. Is the saddle valve or angle stop fully open? Confirm at least 20 PSI water pressure at the refrigerator supply line. If pressure is adequate and the valve buzzes without filling, the valve needs replacement.

Parts Cost: $40-75 (LG valve AJU72992603) Professional Repair Cost: $140-230

Constant Fan Noise That Never Stops

What it means: The 795-series control board may enter a mode where it runs the evaporator and condenser fans continuously if it detects temperature above threshold. This is not necessarily a fan problem but a symptom of a cooling issue (compressor underperforming, sealed system leak, or dirty condenser). The fans are trying to compensate for inadequate heat rejection.

Action: Address the underlying cooling problem rather than the fan noise itself.

Diagnostic By Sound Location

When Noise Indicates Immediate Action Needed

• Continuous click-buzz-click (106): Cooling has stopped. Food at risk within 4-6 hours.
• Loud knocking (795): Compressor is failing. Plan for repair within days, not weeks.
• Grinding + warming temperatures: Fan motor failure affecting cooling. Same-day attention needed.
• Buzzing + burning smell: Electrical component overheating. Unplug immediately and schedule repair.
• Loud single pop + silence: Compressor may have seized. Check if unit is still cooling.

FAQ

Q: My Kenmore refrigerator just started making noise after a power outage. Is this normal?

Yes. After a power outage, the compressor restart delay (8-12 minutes on 106-series, 3-8 minutes on 795-series) can cause unusual clicking or humming as the system stabilizes. If noise resolves within 30 minutes of power restoration, it was a normal restart artifact. If it persists, a component may have been damaged by the power event.

Q: My Kenmore 795 makes a knocking sound but still cools fine. Do I need to fix it now?

Yes. The knocking from a linear compressor is progressive failure. It will worsen over time and eventually stop cooling entirely. More importantly, if your unit qualifies for the LG class action warranty, getting it diagnosed while still operational makes the warranty claim process smoother than waiting for complete failure.

Q: Is it normal for my old Kenmore to be louder than when it was new?

Somewhat. Fan motors, compressors, and mechanical components produce more noise as they age due to bearing wear and vibration dampener degradation. However, a sudden change in noise level (rather than gradual increase over years) indicates a component approaching failure and warrants investigation.

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Unusual noise from your Kenmore refrigerator? Describe the sound and its location when you call — many noise issues can be resolved in a single visit with the right parts. Schedule noise diagnosis ���