How to Replace the Compressor Start Relay on a Whirlpool Refrigerator

When your Whirlpool refrigerator makes a clicking sound every few minutes but the compressor does not run (or starts briefly then clicks off), the compressor start relay and overload protector are the most likely culprits. These inexpensive components ($15-$40) are responsible for starting the compressor motor and protecting it from overheating. Replacement takes 15-20 minutes with basic tools and requires only rear panel access — no sealed system work or refrigerant handling.

This repair applies to all Whirlpool refrigerator models (WRF, WRS, WRT series) as the compressor relay system is standardized across the product line. The relay mounts directly on the compressor terminal pins at the lower rear of the refrigerator. On units with the Accu-Chill temperature management system, the relay also receives a signal from the main control board — but the physical relay component is the same.

Before You Start

• Tools needed: 1/4" nut driver or Phillips #2 screwdriver (rear panel), flathead screwdriver (to pry relay off terminals), multimeter
• Parts needed: Whirlpool compressor start relay with overload (W10613606 or model-specific, ~$15-$40)
• Time required: 15-20 minutes
• Difficulty: Beginner
• Safety warning: Unplug the refrigerator. The compressor has a start capacitor that may hold a small charge — discharge it before touching terminals by shorting across the relay terminals with an insulated screwdriver.

Understanding the Start Relay System

The compressor in your Whirlpool refrigerator is a single-phase motor that needs a starting boost to begin rotation. The start relay connects momentarily to the start winding when the thermostat calls for cooling, then disconnects once the compressor is up to speed. The overload protector (attached to or integrated with the relay) monitors compressor current and temperature — if either exceeds safe limits, it cuts power to prevent motor damage.

When the relay fails, you hear the compressor attempt to start (a brief hum or click) followed by the overload cutting power (another click). This cycle repeats every 3-5 minutes as the overload cools and resets. The refrigerator warms because the compressor never achieves sustained operation.

Whirlpool's Adaptive Defrost system will continue defrosting on schedule even with a failed compressor — this can cause excessive frost melting and water accumulation if the compressor failure goes unnoticed for days.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Pull the refrigerator forward and unplug

Pull the refrigerator away from the wall enough to access the rear panel (12-18 inches is sufficient). Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. Place a towel on the floor to catch any dust.

Step 2: Remove the rear lower access panel

The compressor is located at the bottom rear behind a metal or cardboard panel. Remove the panel screws (typically 4-6 Phillips or 1/4" hex) and set the panel aside. You will see the compressor (black cylindrical dome), condenser coils (serpentine tubing), and condenser fan. The relay is a small component plugged directly onto the side of the compressor where the terminal pins emerge.

Step 3: Identify and remove the start relay

The start relay is a small rectangular or cylindrical component (approximately 2x3 inches) plugged onto the compressor terminals. It may have a separate overload disc attached or the overload may be integrated. Note the wire connections — typically one or two wires from the main wiring harness connect to the relay. Disconnect these wires by pulling the spade connectors with needle-nose pliers (note positions). Then pull the relay straight off the compressor terminal pins — it may require firm but gentle wiggling.

Step 4: Test the old relay

Shake the removed relay gently. If you hear rattling inside, the relay has failed — the internal contacts have broken loose. This is the most common relay failure mode on Whirlpool compressors. For definitive testing, set your multimeter to resistance between the relay's common and start terminals — you should read near-zero ohms with the relay held one way and infinity when inverted (the relay uses gravity to close contacts). If it reads open in both orientations, it is failed.

Test the overload separately (if separate): measure continuity across its terminals at room temperature — it should be closed (near zero ohms). If open at room temperature, the overload has failed permanently open and will prevent compressor operation regardless of relay condition.

Step 5: Install the new relay

Push the new relay onto the compressor terminal pins in the same orientation as the old one. The pins are asymmetric — the relay only fits one way. Push firmly until the relay seats flush against the compressor terminal block. Reconnect the wires to their original positions on the relay — if there are two wires, typically one is the hot supply from the thermostat/board and one goes to the compressor ground. Your tech sheet (behind the base grille or rear panel) shows the wiring diagram.

Step 6: Test operation

With the rear panel still removed (for observation), plug in the refrigerator. The compressor should start within 30-60 seconds as the control board detects the above-setpoint temperature and calls for cooling. Listen for smooth compressor operation — a steady low hum indicates successful start. The compressor should continue running without clicking off. If it clicks off within 5 seconds, the compressor motor itself may have a winding failure (rare but possible), or the new relay is defective.

Step 7: Reinstall the panel and position

Once confirmed running, unplug briefly, reinstall the rear access panel with all screws, and push the refrigerator back into position. Plug in and allow 24 hours for the interior to reach the Accu-Chill setpoint temperature. The Adaptive Defrost system will recalibrate its timing based on the restored compressor operation.

Step 8: Clear error codes

Enter diagnostic mode (3-button sequence per tech sheet) and clear any F0E0 (compressor circuit fault) codes stored during the failure period. The occurrence counter in the diagnostic system shows how many times the fault triggered — high counts indicate the compressor was clicking for an extended period. If the code returns after relay replacement, the compressor motor itself is failing and will need professional sealed-system repair.

Troubleshooting After Replacement

• If the compressor still clicks off within seconds of starting, and the new relay is confirmed correct, the compressor motor has a failed start winding. This requires compressor replacement — a professional sealed-system repair ($400-$800 with labor)
• If the compressor runs but the refrigerator does not cool, the sealed system has a separate issue (refrigerant leak, restricted cap tube, or failed evaporator). The relay replacement only addresses the starting mechanism
• If you hear the compressor running continuously without cycling off, the thermostat or main board may not be sending the off signal. Check the temperature setting and verify the board is receiving thermistor readings
• If the condenser fan does not run when the compressor starts, check the fan motor independently — it should start whenever the compressor engages. A failed condenser fan causes the compressor to overheat and the overload to trip repeatedly (mimicking a relay failure)
• The compressor makes a loud buzzing but does not start — this can be a seized compressor that the new relay is trying to start. A hard-start kit (additional capacitor) can sometimes overcome a stiff compressor, but this is a temporary measure

When This Fix Will Not Work

Call a professional if:

• The compressor has a failed winding (confirmed by testing between terminal pins and getting infinity on any pin pair) — compressor replacement is a sealed-system repair
• The compressor is seized (will not rotate even with a hard-start kit boost) — mechanical failure requiring compressor replacement
• You smell a burnt chemical odor from the compressor area — this indicates winding insulation breakdown and potential refrigerant contamination. Professional sealed-system work required
• The condenser fan runs but the compressor has no start attempt (no hum, no click) — the main control board's compressor output relay may have failed
• Refrigerant hissing sounds are audible from the sealed system — a leak exists that requires EPA-certified professional repair

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

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FAQ

Q: What does a clicking Whirlpool refrigerator mean? A: Clicking every 3-5 minutes indicates the compressor attempting to start and the overload protector cutting power. The start relay is the most common cause — an inexpensive $15-$40 part that takes 15 minutes to replace.

Q: Can I use a universal start relay on my Whirlpool refrigerator? A: Model-specific relays are recommended because they match the compressor's electrical characteristics. Universal kits (hard-start kits) exist but may mask an underlying compressor problem and void warranty.

Q: How do I know if it is the relay or the compressor that failed? A: Test the relay by shaking it — rattling means failed. Also test continuity with multimeter in two orientations. If the relay tests good, the compressor motor likely has a winding failure requiring professional diagnosis.

Q: What is Whirlpool error code F0E0? A: F0E0 indicates a compressor circuit fault. This is stored when the board detects that the compressor is not running despite being commanded on. Most commonly caused by a failed start relay, but can also indicate compressor motor or wiring failure.